Brake Fluid

If I dare attempt to purge my brakes myself, any tips? I read somewhere that there is a good fluid that isn't the standard color for sat - and helps let you know when all of the old fluid is flushed out.

I plan on trying the Brembo rotors and Greenstuff pads as recommended!

Reply to
HyperCube33 (Life2Death)
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Buy a suction type brake bleeder then thank me later.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

I made one of these for $15:

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if you're using the pump the pedal with an assistant method, remember to not push the pedal all the way to the floor, and to make sure you get the bleed screw closed before they let off the pedal.

ATE super blue.

I've had good luck with Valvoline synthetic fluid - price is reasonable, and it holds up to track use quite well.

don't waste the $$ on name brand rotors. spend the $$ on the pads.

--=20 =EF=BB=BFKevin M. Keller Director, News & Promotions Saturn Performance Club

Reply to
Kevin

I made one of these for $15:

formatting link
if you're using the pump the pedal with an assistant method, remember to not push the pedal all the way to the floor, and to make sure you get the bleed screw closed before they let off the pedal.

ATE super blue.

I've had good luck with Valvoline synthetic fluid - price is reasonable, and it holds up to track use quite well.

don't waste the $$ on name brand rotors. spend the $$ on the pads.

Reply to
HyperCube33 (Life2Death)

There is no need for anything other than standard fluid. When you bleed the brakes it is pretty obvious when you get you start getting new fluid. The old fluid will be very dark.

You will find a one man brake bleeder kit at your local auto parts place. It is a plastic bottle with a hose that runs up to the bleeder. I still use two people but the bottle works great to stop you from making a mess and to see the coloring of the fluid that is coming out. When the bottle is full stop, empty the bottle, fill the master cylinder and start again. I am assuming that you understand the basics of how to bleed the brakes... Be very careful not to the let the master cylinder run dry!

I haven't used either of these products so can't comment on them.

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

One problem I see with those is moisture has a greater chance of contaminating the brake fluid.

Reply to
BläBlä

I always use the fluid called out on the reservoir. Old fluid tends to get a dark color while the new fluid is nearly clear. I purge the old school way (though a pressure bleeder is beginning to look good to me) using a helper to operate the brake pedal while I open and close the bleed port. Open the bleed port just to break it loose and gently re-tighten. A box wrench is recommended as an open end will often strip the head. Put a hose on the bleeder barb and feed to a bottle (if possible, keep the end of the hose submerged) The sequence is - pedal up, open bleed port, pedal down (slowly), close bleed port, pedal up, repeat. Check the fluid level in the reservoir every

5-10 pumps to ensure that you don't get so low that you wind up sucking in air. Let the reservoir empty as much as possible first to get rid of the old fluid then top of fluid as you go. Repeat for all wheels until fluid runs clear from all wheels. Recheck bleed ports are snugly closed and replace dust caps.

Some cars, when you let up fast on the brake pedal will cause the fluid will splash out of the reservoir. Just for gits and shiggles, take about a second or two to move the pedal through its stroke. Not sure about modern paint finishes but used to be that brake fluid ruined the paint (as in disolved it). If any brake fluid splashes on painted surfaces, rinse off with water quickly.

Reply to
Oppie

I don't put any fluid in the bleeder - since it sits in my trailer on its side. I just use it to provide the pressure.

But - even if I did have fluid in it, I wouldn't leave it in there after bleeding - just pour it in, bleed, toss the rest. I don't keep open brake fluid around more than a few months, and never use it in the track car.

--=20 =EF=BB=BFKevin M. Keller Director, News & Promotions Saturn Performance Club

Reply to
Kevin

I've had decent results with both a simple catch bottle & hose with a one-way valve in it, as well as using Speedbleeder screws on the calipers. Info on my site here:

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The tech articles on the SPS website have some good info on bleeding brakes:
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?articleID=bleeding_ABS_tech And as Kevin said, buy the cheapest rotors you can find and get some good pads.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Reply to
Lane

Just to be clear - Lane & I both use cheapo rotors on our track cars - Last Thursday, I put about 120 miles on the car on a race track, which included 3 90MPH+ to 35-40MPH corners per 2.1 mile lap. I am using Hawk Blue race pads on cheap rotors, and the rotors are not chattering, squealing, or causing any pulsation in the pedal.

--=20 =EF=BB=BFKevin M. Keller Director, News & Promotions Saturn Performance Club

Reply to
Kevin

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