Cost to replace Valve Cover Gasket?

Hi all,

I'm about at my wit's end here. I'm currently on my 4th mechanic, and am very worried he's going to go through the $900 I still have left, and then some. Problem is: car doesn't start.

The first mechanic is a guy who just fixes cars in his driveway, without a shop or proper tools. He said it wasn't the fuel filter or fuel pump, but he thought it was something electrical. I told him I expected the spark plugs were bad, and he didn't even look at that.

next, I took it to Pep Boys. They said that cylinder number one was bad, that the engine had no compression, but they they don't know about fixing no engines so I'd have to go to a place that does fix engines. $100 please.

Next, I took it to the Saturn Dealership. They said the compression is fine, the engine is still good, but it needs a valve cover gasket. Apparently they didn;t even try to figure why it won't start; they just took a look at the spark plugs and said: "oh they are covered in oil, that's got to be the reason." They also said it needed some other minor stuff that is not about getting it to start, like a coolant temperature sensor and a tuneup. $915.00. So I took it out of there to get another opinion. $95 Please.

Now it's at mechanic number 4. At least he said: "let's get it to start first, then figure out what else is wrong." Ok so he's replacing the spark plugs and spark plug cables, putting one new tire on it (that went flat while the car was just sitting for a month), and doing his own diagnosis. $550. wow. I only have $350 left.

So if I can't afford to pay this guy to do anything else, which I think is likely, I may have to take it somewhere to have somebody just open up the engine, slap a valve cover gasket on it and close it back up again without doing anything else. Shouldn't it be possible to get that for about $350?

I've been reading the forum archives on here, and it looks to me like a lot of you guys have been able to do this yourselves in your own driveway in about an hour. It's just a valve cover gasket, not even a head gasket. I tried to get mechanic number one to do it, but he won't. I thin he's upset that his diagnosis got contradicted. he never returned my call.

I understand it takes specialized tools and training to be able to do it, but shouldn;t I be able to find some place that would just change the gasket and get it done for about $350?

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce
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Might help if you told us what model / year you have. As commonly stated here, engine starts on a combination of spark, fuel and air. find which one is missing and go from there. If you can't get it at least running poorly, you can't get a good diagnosis on anything else.

Reply to
Oppie

Likely a S-series...? Strange, 4 places/people had the plugs out and only the third noticed the oil in the plug wells? If oil has saturated the spark plug boots then the spark is probably grounding out. If it is an S-series 'Compression Sense Timing' could easily be thrown off by this and unable to make heads or tails of the situation.

Goto Saturnfans.com Type in "valve cover" in their search bar. Study the results.

$350 will easily buy decent tools and parts needed but not the skill. If you understand the walkthroughs people have done then give it a try.

No starts are usually very easy to diagnose unless they're sporadic...

Reply to
BläBlä

An S-Series valve cover replacement doesn't require much skill - just a bit of patience and confidence. If you have that and do it yourself, it will cost around $50. It is a very easy repair.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Reply to
Lane

hi all,

I posted on Oct. 3 about my problems with mechanics and getting a diganosis. I have a 1993 saturn SW2 station wagon. Since then, I spent about $550 for the 4th mechanic to change the spark plugs, spark plug cables, and supposedly clean the gasoline out of the engine because, they said, it had washed the rings, but the rings were still operational. Oh, and overcharge for putting a new tire on.

Now it's already starting to have problems again with starting. It's just like before: it seems to start ok in the morning or at night when it's cooler, but in the daytime, it's harder. Or when the engine is warm, it's harder. I have to press the gas pedal all the way to the floor to get the engine to catch, and sometimes it will just die if I take my foot off the pedal. Once it starts, and I'm backed out of the parking spot and moving forward, it's ok.

mecahnic #1 thought it was something electrical, but not anything fuel related. Pep Boys (#2) was worthless. The saturn dealership (#3) thought it was the spark plugs, the valve cover gasket, the fuel filter, the coolant temperature sensor, and thought it needed a fuel injection cleaning. They also wanted to sell me 4 new tires because I had one flat. Advanced Auto Dynamics (#4) decided it was the spark plugs and spark plug wires. They said it wasn't the valve cover gasket, that there was some leakage but that is common for Saturns, and just to check it each time I get an oil change.

That worked for about a week, and now it's starting up again. Any ideas about what I could suggest to mechanic #5? When I can go, that is....

Lane wrote:

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

Simple things first (or last), has the throttle body been cleaned?

Steve

I posted on Oct. 3 about my problems with mechanics and getting a diganosis. I have a 1993 saturn SW2 station wagon. Since then, I spent about $550 for the 4th mechanic to change the spark plugs, spark plug cables, and supposedly clean the gasoline out of the engine because, they said, it had washed the rings, but the rings were still operational. Oh, and overcharge for putting a new tire on.

Now it's already starting to have problems again with starting. It's just like before: it seems to start ok in the morning or at night when it's cooler, but in the daytime, it's harder. Or when the engine is warm, it's harder. I have to press the gas pedal all the way to the floor to get the engine to catch, and sometimes it will just die if I take my foot off the pedal. Once it starts, and I'm backed out of the parking spot and moving forward, it's ok.

mecahnic #1 thought it was something electrical, but not anything fuel related. Pep Boys (#2) was worthless. The saturn dealership (#3) thought it was the spark plugs, the valve cover gasket, the fuel filter, the coolant temperature sensor, and thought it needed a fuel injection cleaning. They also wanted to sell me 4 new tires because I had one flat. Advanced Auto Dynamics (#4) decided it was the spark plugs and spark plug wires. They said it wasn't the valve cover gasket, that there was some leakage but that is common for Saturns, and just to check it each time I get an oil change.

That worked for about a week, and now it's starting up again. Any ideas about what I could suggest to mechanic #5? When I can go, that is....

Lane wrote:

Reply to
Steve

Sounds like a classic bad Coolant Temp Sensor:

But, just changing the sensor isn't usually the fix. The connector that connects to the sensor usually goes bad.

Another area of interest would be the EGR valve.

I hope this helps.

I posted on Oct. 3 about my problems with mechanics and getting a diganosis. I have a 1993 saturn SW2 station wagon. Since then, I spent about $550 for the 4th mechanic to change the spark plugs, spark plug cables, and supposedly clean the gasoline out of the engine because, they said, it had washed the rings, but the rings were still operational. Oh, and overcharge for putting a new tire on.

Now it's already starting to have problems again with starting. It's just like before: it seems to start ok in the morning or at night when it's cooler, but in the daytime, it's harder. Or when the engine is warm, it's harder. I have to press the gas pedal all the way to the floor to get the engine to catch, and sometimes it will just die if I take my foot off the pedal. Once it starts, and I'm backed out of the parking spot and moving forward, it's ok.

mecahnic #1 thought it was something electrical, but not anything fuel related. Pep Boys (#2) was worthless. The saturn dealership (#3) thought it was the spark plugs, the valve cover gasket, the fuel filter, the coolant temperature sensor, and thought it needed a fuel injection cleaning. They also wanted to sell me 4 new tires because I had one flat. Advanced Auto Dynamics (#4) decided it was the spark plugs and spark plug wires. They said it wasn't the valve cover gasket, that there was some leakage but that is common for Saturns, and just to check it each time I get an oil change.

That worked for about a week, and now it's starting up again. Any ideas about what I could suggest to mechanic #5? When I can go, that is....

Lane wrote:

Reply to
Refinish King

Coolant temp sensor is a possibility. $10 for the part, another $7-10 for new coolant, takes about ten minutes to change.

Reply to
William Hughes

Have the injectors been cleaned and checked, I have a 93 sl2 and had one of the injectors stick at about 130 thousand miles, replaced it then the injectors were mismatched and caused a lean misfire problem at idle which didnt occure all the time, i finaly got a set of injectors from a junkyard car and cleaned and tested them myself not an easy project! the stuff you put in the tank will not clean them enough to help! that stuff is only efective if you use it regularly.

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Reply to
justastreekin

er, don;t think so.

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

Oh that's good to know. I just ordered a Chilton's manual and a coolant temp sensor, but it it's also the connector, I guess I have to go back to the mechanic. bleah,.

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

Should it be simple for me to do myself with a chilton's manual?

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

Don't see why not. I did mine three years ago with the Haynes for reference.

Drain coolant Disconnect sensor Remove sensor Apply antisieze compound or teflon tape to threads of new sensor Install sensor Reconnect Refill coolant Start engine and idle for a minute or so Top off coolant

-30-

Reply to
William Hughes

well the dealership said it needed a fuel injection cleaning too, but then they also tried to seel me four tires when I only had one flat.

I'll be keeping it in mind if changing the coolant temp sensor doesn;t do it, thanks!

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

Thank you , I;ll try that.

Reply to
kohlrabi_croce

You need not drain the coolant. Just do it quickly and you will not lose much and then you can top it off after the job is done. Have everything ready to go and it will only leak coolant for a few seconds ...

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

The connector is easier to replace than the sensor:

You can buy an update for the 96 and up, if I'm not mistaken.

This is for the earlier years, to address the intermittent connection.

Reply to
Refinish King

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