Dead Horn

IMHO,

I would directly test the horn. Meaning, take a lead (fused) over to the horn from the positive terminal (I've used fused block in the past too), to the horn. If it sounds, I would rule out the horn, and check for loose connections.

hth,

tom @

I agree with Tom, same thing has happenned with my '02 SC2. FIAMM makes the horn and it can easily be replaced with an exact or better horn made by the same company bought from any auto parts store. I have since replaced my OEM horn with the "freeway blaster" version by FIAMM, I sure get noticed by ignoramuses in SUVs who dont look before switching lanes!

marx404

I must admit to some confusion. The OP stated that they had tested the relay but AFAIK the only relay in the horn circuit is contained inside the horn unit. From memory and without checking, the horn connector has three wires (hot, ground and switched). While I agree that testing the horn is a good idea, I would use a voltmeter to the disconnected horn connector first to check you have power, ground and control signal power when horn switch is pressed.

When I had a horn failure the horn would not shut off. It happened in the wintertime during wet driving conditions. I removed the horn, and placed it in a warm location inverted so any moisture would drain from the connector. I did not see any water drain out but after a couple of days to dry, I tested and reinstalled the horn using dielectric grease to seal the connector. End of problem. It has worked OK for several years since then. There have been a lot of horn problems reported here. Others have also reported moisture and connector problems. I suspect that most are caused by moisture and freezing of the relay. AFAIK the horn is very expensive and if replaced with a standard two (or one) wire horn will also require a separate relay.

Perhaps marx404 could comment on the relay issue. Did you(he) install a separate relay or did the replacement horn contain a relay?

AFAIK, the relay is self contained in the horn itself and you make a good point about moisture, as the positioning of the horn opening is exposed to the wind and sits lower than say - the older SL2's there is a high probability that moisture is a factor, was in my case. I would suggest replacing the horn, only costs about $10. at Discount Auto.

marx404

There is a horn relay in the underhood fusebox.

Hmm interesting. The problem has happened before but magically fixed itself. Perhaps the horn "froze" and needed to thaw.

Marx,

Where the heck is the horn anyway. I can't find it anywhere?

Its been awhile but if memory serves me right, its located on the underside near the front bumper and is a beyach to get to on later model SC's, not as convenient as where it was mounted on earlier SL's which was by the hood latch up top, front.

marx404

I accessed the horn on my '96 SL2 by removing the left front inner fender.

Ken

I replaced the horn on my '96 SL2 in July, 2005. All you need to do is remove the headlight assembly by unscrewing two 10 mm fasteners. Let the headlight dangle by it's wires for the duration. Then you can reach down to the 10 mm fastener holding the horn in place. You can only make small rotations, but you'll get there.

So it's quite easy, a 10 mm box end, a small extension, a ratchet, a 10 mm socket, and you're in business.