HELP !!

Take the vehicle to Autozone and have the engine diagnostic error code read FOR FREE. Post the code here along with mileage, symptoms (if any), and recent maintenance history. It might be something as simple as needing to tighten the gas cap, a tune up, or an EGR valve. Without knowing the reason the engine light was illuminated by the computer you have no idea where to look.

Bob

"Bob Shuman" typed until their fingers bled, and came up with:

And don't let them tell you they can't do it.

All the check engine light really means is that a sensor has reported a value outside its normal range. This can mean there is a problem, or it may be a simple sensor malfuntion due to sitting for a long time, and hten only being driven a short distance. If it was a one time error, the light may go off after around 10 start cycles. If it does, you still should have it read, but it isn't quite as urgent. If the light flashes, that's a more serious error. I got that often with my previous plug wires - I got a misfire under hard acceleration. New wires cured that.

Gentlemen; Thank you very much for your replies. There is more infromation to complement my original posting: Late last night, when going to enter the car in the garage (the engine had been off of more than 10 hours and was definitively cool), the alarm light didn't remain ON as before. This leads me to suspect it might be related to heating condition of either oil, or something else. Nevertheless, I plan to go to Autozone (I located one here in Toronto), but would be strange they do something for you FOR FREE. Mechanics here are inclined to charge even for replying to your incoming "good morning" greetings. Will (indeed), keep you posted.

danielr

The fact that the check engine light has turned itself off is not uncommon. As someone else pointed out, the issue is not all that serious and is most likely a sensor reporting an out of bound reading. This could be due to a real problem, a bad sensor, a wiring/connection issue, or a computer problem. The problem will most likely return unless it was something as simple as a loose fuel cap.

You still have not posted the mileage of the vehicle or the maintenance history either. I asked for this since most SL 1.9L Saturn engines seems to have the EGR valve get plugged up (part of the problem here is oil consumption which you can help some by changing the PCV valve) so report a code 032 error. Most have this develop between 80K and 120K miles. The part is about $100 and easily replaced in about 30 minutes with pretty common tools. I have had some limited success with removing, cleaning and replacing the EGR, but the sticking reoccurred within about 20K miles so it might be best to just bite the bullet up front if this is the trouble code.

Good luck.

Bob

Gentlemen; Thanks again for your help. Sorry for taking this long to update status, but coming back from a trip, some other things took priority. Nevertheless, here it is:

1) The problem seems to be solved, because the telltale lamp "service engine soon" no longer remains ON after start. 2) The main data of my car is this: Bought from dealer (someone could not hold the lease any longer), with 23000 Km (1.6 Km = 1 mile), in January 2000. Now it has 126000 Km. At approximately 53000 Km installed K&N Filtercharger Air Filter, and Platinum Bosh 4+ spark plugs: Dramatic improvement in mileage. Became able to get approximately 600 Km (mixed 65 % highway and 35% city driving) with 40 liters of 92 octane gasoline. Since then, I wash the filter every 25000 Km with K&N kit. Still have the plugs. At approximately 85000 Km, belt changed. At approximately 100000 Km, muffler changed. At approximately 115 KM, changed brake pads, also right side inner and outer rod end seals that leaked. Last September battery was replaced with another AC Delco (didn't keep record of mileage, but the original battery was 8 years old, and it was time for it). Currently running on Michelin harmony tires. Cost a bit more, but the grip to snow and ice justify them. Furthermore, noticeable savings in gas came as a surprise. Regarding PCV : here in Canada, every two years is mandatory to undergo the emission test prior to get the license. A hose is attached to the exhaust, and gases chromatograph analyzed. Also, the sealing capability of gas cup is tested. Although this car is relatively new, given the fact that I extremely dependent on it, to avoid failure of the test, I change the PCV before the test, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas. Since purchase, I always used 5-30W Castrol oil, adding Bardhal #1 at every oil change (every 3000 Km). It is interesting to mention that prior to changing the oil, no burn was noticed. Just this last time (about 2000 Km ago), for the first time I tried 5-30W Mobil Synthetic Supersyn. To my surprise, last Wednesday when checking oil level because of the telltale lamp ON, noticed a decrease from filled level (its also drker; starnge thing after only 2000 Km). Replenished the difference, but I am starting to believe that perhaps going back to Castrol would be wiser (and cheaper), although more frequent. That's all for this time. Thank you all for you help, comments and suggestions. (btw: Autozone checks the DTC -Diagnostic Trouble Code, only after payment of C$ 45.00).

Gentlemen; Thanks again for your help. Sorry for taking this long to update status, but coming back from a trip, some other things took priority. Nevertheless, here it is:

1) The problem seems to be solved, because the telltale lamp "service engine soon" no longer remains ON after start. 2) The main data of my car is this: Bought from dealer (someone could not hold the lease any longer), with 23000 Km (1.6 Km = 1 mile), in January 2000. Now it has 126000 Km. At approximately 53000 Km installed K&N Filtercharger Air Filter, and Platinum Bosh 4+ spark plugs: Dramatic improvement in mileage. Became able to get approximately 600 Km (mixed 65 % highway and 35% city driving) with 40 liters of 92 octane gasoline. Since then, I wash the filter every 25000 Km with K&N kit. Still have the plugs. At approximately 85000 Km, belt changed. At approximately 100000 Km, muffler changed. At approximately 115 KM, changed brake pads, also right side inner and outer rod end seals that leaked. Last September battery was replaced with another AC Delco (didn't keep record of mileage, but the original battery was 8 years old, and it was time for it). Currently running on Michelin harmony tires. Cost a bit more, but the grip to snow and ice justify them. Furthermore, noticeable savings in gas came as a surprise. Regarding PCV : here in Canada, every two years is mandatory to undergo the emission test prior to get the license. A hose is attached to the exhaust, and gases chromatograph analyzed. Also, the sealing capability of gas cup is tested. Although this car is relatively new, given the fact that I extremely dependent on it, to avoid failure of the test, I change the PCV before the test, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas. Since purchase, I always used 5-30W Castrol oil, adding Bardhal #1 at every oil change (every 3000 Km). It is interesting to mention that prior to changing the oil, no burn was noticed. Just this last time (about 2000 Km ago), for the first time I tried 5-30W Mobil Synthetic Supersyn. To my surprise, last Wednesday when checking oil level because of the telltale lamp ON, noticed a decrease from filled level (its also drker; starnge thing after only 2000 Km). Replenished the difference, but I am starting to believe that perhaps going back to Castrol would be wiser (and cheaper), although more frequent. That's all for this time. Thank you all for you help, comments and suggestions. (btw: Autozone checks the DTC -Diagnostic Trouble Code, only after payment of C$ 45.00).

"Dirtier oil" isn't necessarily a bad thing ... the synthetic does a better job of dissolving sludge and suspending particulate. This actually is "cleaning" your engine since that stuff was there. I use 10W-30 oil in the summer and 5W-30 in winter in my son's 1.9L 1996 SL. Castrol is good oil. Also use a good filter as well (stay away from Fram .. I like Purolator).

Good luck. Hope the SES light stays out, but I'd suspect the EGR (code 32) if it comes back.

PS Our local Autozone checks the codes for free as I am told do the others here in the US.

"danielr" typed until their fingers bled, and came up with:

t, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas.

97? I'm assuming you mean 87. If not, you're wasting $$. your car is designed for 87 - it will not run better on higher octane.