Need advice on maintaining my '96 SL

I do not see tranny fluid change on list for manual gear box (it should have been changed at least twice now) and I would not use 5w30 down there in a new or old engine. I would use 10w30 minimum. There is a lot of argue ment about them being the same at high temps but they are not because 5w30 has more VI (viscocity improver) than 10w30 that added nothing to lubrication abilties and become more unstable at higher temps than 10w30 does. Also one more tip, make sure you cahnge oil often as miles rack up because as engine wears a bit the oil gets dirty sooner and keeping oil cleaner will extend life of even a worn engine.

----------------- The SnoMan

I remember when I first bought it the dealer said they use 10w30 in Phoenix, not the 5w30. I have always used the oil "on tap" at the heavy equipment place I work at, which is Chevron Delo 15w/40 HDdiesel oil. The Chevron guys said they use it in all their salesman's small cars and it is the best non-synthetic motor oil you will find. It sure proved to work fine in my car so far at 140K.

Larry

snip

Sounds like you are getting good service and giving your car good maintenance. I do think that 5K is too long on the oil and personally use

3-3,500 mi. As engines wear they pass more blowby and oil will be contaminated quicker even if they are not actually burning any. Oil is cheap maintenance. I use 5w30 but in your climate I would consult your dealer service manager for recommendation and would think that 10w30 may be better (and cheaper) If most of your driving is short trips then I would stay with 5w30 but if most is longer trips then 10w30 makes more sense if you ensure that you take it easy on startup by allowing it to idle for at least 1 minute on startup to allow the thicker oil to get to the timing chain and valve gear and also to limit engine speed until the engine is completely warm.

You do seem to go through a lot of tires but I have no information about the quality of the tires you are purchasing or of your desire to use tires that are half new vs. half left. I suggest you may want to raise your tire pressures and suggest you talk to your tire supplier. I have had good service using 32 lbs pressure all around, and sometimes slightly higher in the summer if I am heavily loaded. Tire pressure is especially important in hot weather. Tread wear pattern is a good way to determine if the pressure is right for your loading and service. If tires wear first on the edges then pressure is too low and if wear is mainly in the center then pressure is (slightly) too high. Higher pressure will also stiffen up the ride and give better fuel consumption.

I have also experienced more windshield rock damage than I would like and can only speculate that it is due to the cars low height and low fenders and windshield angle, which are good for fuel consumption but seems to result in catching rocks.

You do not say that you replaced rotors when you did the front pads. I do not believe in resurfacing rotors and normally install new (offshore cheap) rotors when replacing pads. Expect to replace rotors on your next pad replacement.

You location is very dry so you probably do not have much of a problem with moisture in your brake fluid but it is cheap to change, and now would be a good time as you are at the cars half life and a change now will last the remaining life of the car. Just empty the reservoir then refill with brake fluid from a new and UNOPENED container then start at the farthest wheel and bleed the brakes with the help of a friend. A good time to do this is when you are rotating your tires as it is a lot easier when the wheels are off.

Many people in hot climates seem to report alternator failures at low mileage. There is not anything you can or should do about it except not to be too surprised if you have a failure. You have also replaced a lot of batteries which could also be due to your hot climate, but if I was your friend I would be asking you for your old batteries (and tires).

I would also remove the ignition coils and clean all the mounting surfaces and bolts and reinstall using dielectric grease on the bolts and mounting surfaces and electrical connectors. I think a lot of good coil packs are replaced because of poor electrical connection and mounting corrosion.

I would not consider this a high mileage car and think that with continued good maintenance and a home in your dry climate that this car is only at its half life point and can continue to give you good economical service for many more years, (if you don't hit anything or get hit). Keep you foot off the clutch, your rpms low and practice progressive shifting.

Good luck, YMMV

The extreme heat out here seems to cook tires. The belts usually come apart before the tread is worn out. The first set of skins I bought were fairly cheap at a Discount Tire chain. They have a warranty program that gets me replacement tires for about 20 bucks each time I have a tire get damaged from road hazzards or the belts come unglued. It may not be 12 tires I've replaced, but it is at least 9-10. they usually go a few years and start to come apart, so I run it over to Discount and they put on a new one for 20 bucks. There is supposed to be a limit to the warranty, but I have never been refused warranty replacement on a tire since buying the original set

100K miles ago.

Most batteries only go a couple of years out here, even the 72 month kind. They just get boiled in summer.

Larry

This tire warranty sounds very cost effective. Normally I do not like tire or battery warranties because they charge full retail minus prorated wear/age for the replacement which often ends up being more than I would have to pay by just buying smart or wholesale. I have heard that the extreme heat in the south USA is hard on batteries and tires and I think that plus the low tire pressures specified (to get a soft ride) for the Ford Explorer SUVs was the cause of most of the tire failures a couple of years ago.

I am interested that you have not had alternator problems as many in hot climates do report this. Your proper replacement of your batteries when required may be the reason you have not needed to replace an alternator. Here in Canada we usually learn the hard way that a poor battery often causes a starter to burn out in the first cold snap of winter. We find the best way to cope with winter is to make sure we have good tires and batteries in the fall.

From the sound of your posts you have a good handle on the maintenance you need in your area. Doing the work yourself saves you LOTS of money but also keeps you aware of how your car is aging and where it needs some help. Doing the work yourself also means you do not become prey to the repair robbers..

Good luck, YMMV

Replace your Coolant Temperature Sensor. It's only $9 at AutoZone, and can save you a whole lot of hassle later on. I think they generally have a 100,000 mile life.

You'll have to let out a lot of engine coolant, so its good to do at a coolant interval change. (You've been doing that, right? Saturns seem to corrode away their heater core... Not that you'd need one where you are!) Probably wouldnt hurt to wrap the threads with a little teflon tape when you install it. You'll need a deep 10mm socket - start it with your fingers first.

The funny thing with Saturns is that the guage on the dash is not the related to the sensor the "engine computer" sees... that's a different sensor. So if it looks like the engine is running hot, the computer might not THINK SO since it uses a different sensor (which fails "open" or high resistance - the results being that the engine "seems" to be much cooler than it actually is).

On the oil - call me a rebel or moron, but based on recommendation of my grandfather I go to using straight 30w in the summer. With 30w, there are no thermal modifiers to break down. If your car is already at 80 degrees, the oil is quite thin enough for the starting requirements of the engine.. Of course, once it drops down into the 60s you should start using 10-30 again. (I wish I could find 20-30W) I've been doing this for 20 years and have yet to develop bearing or ring problems on any car or truck I've used straight 30 in.

Tranny oil should be replaced every 30 to 50k miles. Odd thing to me - you use Automatic Transmission Fluid instead of gear oil. The filler is a rubber latch plug on the transmission casting "shoulder" right ahead of and below the brake master cylinder. The drain is not too hard to find - its the only drain fitting on the bottom of the transmission.

I would not use 15w40 in a small engine unless it is worn a good bit. It will decrease your MPG some due to increased shearing forces. 15w40 is a good oil but it does not belong in a nice tight 4 cylinder except maybe when temps are above 100 degrees a lot.

----------------- The SnoMan