rear suspension noise

Hello, When ever I drive over a bump in the road....even the bump at the end of my drive way there is, sometimes, a loud popping noise comming from the rear end of the car. Sometimes it is the left side and sometimes the right side. I got a Saturn Chiltons's book and it looks like it must be the stabalizer (sway) bar and links. There is no mention on how to lubricate these or even if they can be. I looked under the car and one (i think) link is twisted about 45 degrees. I tried to get it back into the same relation as the other side but it is fixed solid. Do these parts (stabalizer sway bar and links) just wear out and have to be replaced? If so any ideas on how much it would cost for each side? The car is a '97 SC2 with 50k miles on it. Thanks.....Dan.

Reply to
DannyB20
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Yes, the joints on the end links freeze up over time and cause weird noises. I believe that each runs about $40 from a Saturn retailer's parts department.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Reply to
Lane

Just had my rear sway bar links replaced last week due to the exact same noise. Parts ran about $120 (links+bushings X2, not done at the dealer but I got them at close to cost) and were non-stock locally, so it took 4 days to get them in. I also had the rear struts replaced since they had the backend ripped apart anyway; should have had them replace the fronts too.

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Reply to
Steve

Lane,

Is this job hard to do? Do both or can I get away with just the noisy one? Any other tips?

The reason I ask is that this is on my list, and surprisingly neither Chilton's, Haynes, nor even the factory manual have much to say about it. I assumed that was because it was easy and obvious, just two bolts--but then my dealer quoted me $288 to change the pair! This is an hour+ labor per side, so I'm wondering if there's more to it?

Thanks,

Max

"Lane" wrote:

Reply to
Max

Literally, it's a 10 minute job per side, and that includes removing the wheel. It's two nuts on each. Sometimes the nuts are difficult to remove, so some penetrant and a good set of tools (air tools if you have 'em) make it easier. Be careful not to bend the bracket which connects them to the strut body when you're removing that nut.

You can replace just one, but if one is currently bad, the other is soon to follow. Might as well do both as long as you're at it.

That price they quoted is stupid insane, even if it does include the parts themselves. With a price like that, I'd look for a different dealer.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Reply to
Lane

The UNPROTECTED ball joints in those links are nothing but crap and freeze up in less than a year. I put big gobs of grease on mine and then tied plastic freezer bags over them with fine wire to protect them from dirt. They've lasted 3 yrs so far.

Reply to
misterfact

I must be doing something wrong. Mine are still original on my 1998 SW2 with 118k miles.

-DanD

Reply to
Dan Duncan

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