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Removing frozen bolts???

I'm finally replacing the head gasket on my 95 SW1 SOHC because I'm now having to add 1/2 gallon/day in water-(green)antifreeze. No "milkshakes" just a good green leak from the front and back of the engine. This is a by-the-book (Haynes) job. I can't locate a FSM. The 10mm bolts holding the AC compressor bracket to the head are frozen. I've tried liquid wrench, a little heat from a propane torch, impact driver (hammer). No luck. I'm also having problems getting the harmonic balancer pulley bolt off too. Yes, i've wedged the pulley and tried a big torque wrench. The book says 256lft/lbs. Feels like 500. This is a counterclockwise removal. yes?? Depression is starting to set in. What other tools or gods do I need??? Help!!!

Jackcat in Tucson.

Reply to
JacktheCat Turkey
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Dont use an impact to remove bolts from aluminum! The threads will get pulled out with the bolts. Also be carefull with which bolts you apply heat to because some have a very specific heat treat. Get a "longer ratchet" and make sure your sockets are the warrantied type. (dont use

12 points)

The harmonic balancer bolt is threaded like any other. Turn it counter clockwise to remove but you will likely need about a 4 foot long ratchet/breaker bar (dont use torque wrenches for removal) and someone using a tool to hold the flywheel/flexplate. Before you put most of these bolts back in put "a little" Anti-Seize on them unless they require a locking/sealing compound.

Reply to
blah blah

snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (JacktheCat Turkey) typed until their fingers bled, and came up with:

use a real impact wrench.

I had to use an IR Titanium impact to get that one loose. I've done the big breaker bar thing, bracing a block of wood in the pulley to keep it from spinning, and it is a major PITA. It is torqued to 155 ft lbs - the highest torqued fastner on the car.

Been there, Done that, have the T-shirt

air tools.

Reply to
Kevin M. Keller

I get a product called Kroil from

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(only available mail-order and internet). I buy a gallon at a time and thoroughly saturate all bolts to be removed. Rarely have lost a bolt that way. The harmonic balancer can be a bit of a pain to remove but most often just needs a serious impact wrench. I had one for $40 that worked ok but the $200 thunder gun (1/2" drive) is amazing. I gave up the propane torch years ago. I have a oxy/acet set now but did use mapp gas in a turbo torch for a while. Far better heat output. Aluminum has much better heat flow than steel so any heat you put in one area tends to flow away unless you use a lot of heat in a small area. As with any repair, a general knowledge of how much force you can exert on a bolt before it breaks is often learned by experience. Sometimes just cracking it loose is only half the battle. Keep adding a good penetrating fluid and working the bolt back and forth to remove it without stripping the aluminum threads.

Reply to
Oppie

The aluminum had a chemical reaction ( galvanic corrosion ) to the steel and seized. Try to see if you can get some ammonia to flood the seized bolt ( in place of a liquid wrench type product ); this should neutralize the reaction and free the bolt. Will do a lot less damage than brute force method.

Laz

Reply to
Laz

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