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Sequential electrical failures

My 1996 SL2 is having sequential electrical failures. In order: Door locks, Radio, rear window defroster, some of the idiot lights on the dash when the key is in the "on" position (there may be others, but my daughter is the main driver and she may not have mentioned them all to me). Replaced the Ignition switch and that didn't do any good. The Battery is in very good condition, it's been load tested, etc.

Anyone encountered this issue? Spoke with the Saturn dealer head service adviser and she said it could be the main wiring harness (she called one of the mechanics and discussed it with him), and there were no burn marks or any signs of anything wrong when the ignition switch was changed out.

Reply to
Gclanman
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Not the same brand though I drive a SATURN now -- but the same YEAR - a

1996 Aerostar -

Wife insisted it would just STOP on her .. I was like "O.K ".

Then my friend and I went to Lunch one day and I was driving it, and .."Poof, dead, nothing - was lucky I didn't cause an accident".

K, step one - trusted mechanic.

3 days later said it has to go to Ford since they have the machine
Reply to
Jon Jon

Just a suggestion: Check all your grounds too. The lugs/screws/bolts to the frame and/or engine can corrode and cause low voltage to your computer and give you the symptoms you describe. Also remove and clean the connectors to the computer too. Good luck

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Thanks for the tips. I'll check for those possible bad grounds. As far as the computer, I'm gonna have to read the manual to find out just where it is.

Reply to
Gclanman

Reply to
Oppie

I'm out in the land of crazies and nuts, i.e. CA, so there's no salt on the roads, and the cars' never been anywhere near snow. But I will check for corrosion in any case. Would the computer be under or near the under hood main fuse block?

Reply to
Gclanman

After you check for at least the obvious grounds, pull the fuses and check for corrosion on the terminals. you can also try having the BCM (body control module) checked. This is the module that is the common element in everything you mentioned. I have a L series so can't speak for the SL2. A good garage might be able to connect up a OBDii tool to access the BCM and exercise the devices in question. Good luck as the BCM is $400 plus installation and programming. Oppie

Reply to
Oppie

What scrap yard do you use? I'd say $50 (Maybe $100 at the very max) at the local U-Pull-It place.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

I was quoting the dealer price installed and programmed to owner. The BCM has a lot of parameters that must be programmed in - not the least of which is the odometer reading (ref: L-series shop manual). To my knowledge this can only be done with a Tech2. Most dealers will refuse to work with a salvaged module under the premise that 'it might damage my tool' which is of course unmitigated BS. Speaking as an engineer myself, any designer worth his salt designs a tool that tolerates any downstream faults and at worst, blows a fuse... Oppie

Reply to
Oppie

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