Stalling/studdering problem...

Hi and TIA for talking a look...

'94 SL2, 175K miles... Tune up about 25K ago....5 spd....change oil filter regularly...car's unique feature of self oil disposal means car always has clean oil... :)

Car starts/runs fine....Problem is that as soon as you take your foot off the gas (no matter how much RPM you had it up to...3k or 1k rpm) the engine almost stalls (sometimes does) sputters a little at almost 0 rpms, then comes back to normal idle and settles in. Thankfully is a 5 spd, so sometimes as I roll up on a light and it stalls, I pop the clutch for a second to restart. This problem started about 5 months ago as an oddity, and had been gradually getting worse (a breathing problem?) Any suggestions on where I should begin? I don't have much $ and am just trying to squeeze as much as I can out of it. I kiss the guys ass who's been inspecting it for the last three years as he has to "help" it through emissions as well as overlooking the cracked windshield that emanates from two rust bubbles where it meets the roof (stress cracks?)

Anyway, he'll overlook the others, but if it stalls on him during testing.....(you get the picture)

TIA!!!

Scott

Reply to
IYM
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Classic EGR valve.

B~

Reply to
B. Peg

Thank B!

I googled and it looks pretty easy to fix, and not too much $...

My only other question that seems to pop up in discussions is that it could be the solenoid? BTW - I failed to mention I have never gotten a SES code or anything. I had also noticed that someone had bogging and exhaust smells which I have, but didn't think anything of it. They mentioned they changed their PCM coolant temp sensor...I guess I have to check that too....

Thanks again...

Scott

Reply to
IYM

There is a pitol (?) solenoid that was on mine that I could remove and clean with throttle body cleaner and a Q-Tip and tooth brush. Always seemed it was the damn EGR valve though and sometimes I could clean it but sometimes it gets so carboned up it's almost impossible to clean.

I think the throttle body solenoid generally affects the car by not allowing it to get back down to idle speed. The EGR when it acts up results in the stall which is more noticeable in the manual as when you push in the clutch than the automatic.

B~

Reply to
B. Peg

Don't forget to clean the throttle body (butterfly valve).

Reply to
Steve

Hi, just bought a saturn wagon, 1998 135k on the clock and as is. Truly a pain to get it ready for safety certification. I found parts to be higher priced than I am used to; ex. EGR valve $300. Electronic actuation as opposed to vacuum. So when my wagon began to stall at avery stop sign and light I thought that the repair would financially ruin me (lol!). A conversation I had with a mehanic he told me about two temperature sensors that may cause exactly this type of problem. I got the parts from Saturn, 2 temp sensors, and replaced the one on the rear of the engine(driver's side, just below and behind the expensive EGR valve)and instantly the car ran as it should. Idle back down to just below 1k rpm, no stalling and no more catalyic stench(rotten egg). Oh yeah, each sensor was $20.Only problem left is that I cannot find where the other sensor is. Saturn tells me that they are BOTH on the head, but I seem to be able to find one only . With all the sputtering and stalling I thought that I had better clean the EGR valve and the throtle body(including MAP sensor at far right)WORKS GREAT

Reply to
d_bear

For 1998 I think there was only one temperature sensor, but it doesn't really matter - the second sensor only runs the temperature gauge and won't change how well the car runs. -Rick

Reply to
Rick Murphy

You need to find another source for your replacement parts. You do not provide enough info for me to look up the EGR to give you a full cost comparison, but here is a sample web parts site that would be substantially less. Also, these places offer additional 10% savings at various times during the year, and if you are out of California, there is no sales tax and in most cases shipping is free.

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I'm sure there are other on line sources, but I've had good luck with this vendor.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Vacuum egr's pretty much went out in the 80's. No wonder you think stuff is pricey (then again oem is pricey). Autozone shows egr's for about 120 bucks but you should always clean the original unless it stops working.

You can manually clean your TB and EGR, map isn't really cleanalbe. For the rest of the engine I recommend GM's Top Engine Cleaner. Thats something you might need to do. I posted some scant directions for it about a month ago...

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I would just add to that..."dont let it soak or hydrolock" and "change your oil afterwards".

Reply to
Blah Blah

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