Do you think Saturn would kill my warranty if I wanted to use a synthetic or part synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Clean 7500? I have the 2005 ION QC (not redline) and the manual is pretty explicit on regular oil, but I want to have this car last a good long time and the Clean 7500 is less than $3 a quart. Also I like having the dealership do the maintenance until the warranty is expired, so since they do not stock Clean 7500 I would have to provide it.
Or is Mobil 1 that much better and worth the extra money?
You shouldnt use synthetics until your engine is broken in which is about 9000 miles. Synthetic Oils last a long time but oil filters can still load up before 4000 miles.
That depends on how you drive your car or if you plan on keeping it long enough to see the longevity benefit (which most people nowadays do not).
I had a motor go bad at 93k. I typically ran Quaker State regular oil in it, and religiously changed the oil every 3000 miles since it was new. When I opened up the dead motor, I COULD NOT believe how dirty and gunked up it was inside. It was amazing. You can see photos in the project section of my website.
Conversely, the replacement motor which went in and I bought new - I switched it to synthetic at 500 miles and it is now up to 47k. I recently opened it up to replace the valve cover gasket and was again shocked at what I saw inside this motor as well - but in a good way. The top end still looked new as can be, and as though oil never touched the insides. It looked so good I had to take a picture.
I'm sold on synthetic from a longevity standpoint, and also use it in my race car since it sees much harsher than normal duty. It also prevents the motor in my daily driver from making odd noises on startup after it is parked outside overnight in winters where the temp can get as low as -40 (in the -60s with windchill). That has to be hard on a motor.
I've heard similar stories from several other Quaker State oil users. I have no idea if they are caused by the oil or not, but stay away from QS just in case. This is similar to the Fram oil filter situation which I also avoid like the plague.
Conventional QS has a pretty high ash content when compaired to other oils. Synthetic oils have no ash content. Thats one reason why Synthetics dont sludge up, cake up, or create dirt seals. This is why people think synthetics "Create" leaks. They do nothing to replenish dirt seals.
Yes, I've heard the same thing about Quaker State. As I recall the postings I've read attributed this to Pennsylvania crude in general ... Although I can't help but wonder if Quaker State actually still comes out of the PN crude any more.
I have always used Mogile 1 oil and have 148k on my 97 sl2. I did a heck of a lot of research prior than picking abd synthetic and Mobil 1 won out on all.. and it is the only non detergent syn out there. I also use the BEST oil filter I can and if available would use mobile
1's oil filter ($10) a pop. The thing that sold me the most was the motorhome test that used mobile one in a 440 dodge for 100k miles then broke down the engine and found NO apprecable wear at all on the engine. The last car I had use to have an oil pressure gauge and even at -20 out it would start and go immediatly to 60 psi oil pressure.. wish there was a way to put an oil guage on the saturn but saturn says no.
No, they won't do it? Or, no, they feel there is no way?
I have oil pressure & oil temp gauges on both of my Saturns and it's not that difficult to do. I don't know that this would tell you anything useful on a street-driven car, but if you want to install one, info on what I did is here:
No they feel there is no way. Of course we were looking to adapt the current oil sensor to have both and that might be the problem.. May I ask how and where you connected your electronic sensor to. I have a 97 sl2 stick. Also you have done some excellent things to your vehicles.. they look sharp. Those dog bones.. did they help the saturn buzz when it is cold?? I changed the upper mount for it was ripped along the bottom and that helped 95%. I took one of the bones off and it was metal with rubber bushings so I was afraid to install the solid rubber ones. Never looked at the drivers side but I'll be checking it when I check the transmission mount..
NON-DETERGENT????????? What do you mean? Mobil 1 definitely includes detergents just like conventional motor oils. Maybe you mean it doesn't include vicosity improvers?
If there is an oil pressure switch, there is a way to add a guage. Just go to
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and search for one.
BTW, The often criticized Consumer Reports oil evaluation (using taxi cabs) found very little wear when conventional oil was used. They saw no substantial difference in wear between conventional and synthetic oil when it was changed regularly.
Taxi Cabs dont do enough cold start cycles to wear out an engine. Thats where you get a majority of the wear these days.
Every car will have an oil pressure "light". A oil pressure "gage" is sometimes not optional. The difference in the sensors would be that one is a "switch" while the other is a "potentiometer". You can install the potentiometer type but where are you going to stick the readout? Thats where the dealer probably had an issue. Personally I think trying to change that would be a waste of money.
The '94 sl1 I had now has 234,000 on it. Never used anythin but an AC oil filter and straight 30 no name oil. Changed at 3k. Oil's oil if you change it regular. No need for $ynthetics except to line the makers pockets.
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