turning rotors

The shop that would turn the rotors should check them before turning to see if there is a safe thickness to even start. And check them again after turning. As it is a safety issue, with their shop on-the-line.

Monday I changed the front brakes on my 98 SC2 and used a pair of $19.95 rotors. I had brought my old ones to a shop to be turned, but it was closed. For the price of the new rotors verses the old ones being turned, the choice was simple....why bother with questionable when for $25 more you can have new? I know what I have will last for a long time safely and for a mere $65 total. I live in Wisconsin and found the cooling fins to be quite corroded as well.

Bendix

In the distant past ('60s & '70s) it was worth it to turn rotors because they were pretty thick to begin with. Now, they're pretty thin even when new. Thin rotors warp easier. I haven't bothered having rotors turned for years, for the very economic reasons you stated, plus not wanting to have rotors that will usually warp.

Ken

I have to disagree with most folk.

I'd call around and see if you can get a better price on the turning - $5 each is not uncommon, $2 each if you buy the replacement pads from them is also common.

When I've bought the Bendix pads at my local auto parts dealer, they've been willing to turn the rotors for $2 each. Works like a champ.

Now, that said, why do you think you need to turn the rotors? Is there significant scoring (0.060" or deeper grooves)? If not, and you aren't getting pedal pulsations, don't bother turning them - you don't need to.

There has been no pulsation, yet the rotor scoring is just beginning to show. Doubt the scoring is .060" yet. The rotor surface appears to be glazed, or shiny. Is there a possibility that the shiny surface can be taken down somehow, and if so, what might the best way be to do this myself?

If I can do some inexpensive simple repairs myself, it'll definately help my limited budget. I was hoping to find someone to turn the 4 rotors, and just take as little off as possible. They, the brakes, don't grab like the new rotors and pads did when I installed new, so that was why I thought about having them turned. There is still quite a bit of pad depth yet also.

Thanks to all who rep> I have to disagree with most folk.

I can't remember what I paid to get mine turned but it was pretty cheap.

I looked up the rotor specs in the Haynes manual and found mine had plenty of thickness after measuring with a dial indicator. They've been fine for around

turning - $5

I usually have to replace brakes about twice as often as 'normal' people. The brakes on my Saturn seem like they're going to last forever. Now that I've said that I expect to soon hear the sound of metal on metal. ;-)

Ken

Thats pretty much my thoughts. I'm really surprised they've lasted as long as they have :).

I have access to turn my own rotors and won't do it. I bought rotors for my SL2 for $16 a piece. Yes I am sure they are cheap but at that price I will put them on new everytime I do a brake job. I get about 45K out of a set of front brakes.

The old days of nice heavy thick rotors are gone! Even the metal quality has diminished. Just take a look at the rotor where the inside pad rubs. More times than not, they are deeply pitted due to poor material.

James

Read this out of todays paper...