259 fuel pump question

you ought to be able to feel a suction/pressure on the appropriate ports of the FP when it's assembled and you stroke it by hand, are you seeing that? Did you see any cracks around the edge of the diaphragm?

The bad news is I don't think that the kits that most vendors sell include the check valves; however, they look the same as the ones in the R1/R2 pumps, so if you need those you might need to buy two kits, or perhaps the one big vendor that sells fuel pump kits (whose name escapes me at the moment) could sell you some separately.

good luck,

nate

What's the date of the post about not needing to bend the pump arms? If you are using a Carter pump, there should be a number stamped on the edge of the mounting flange, something like 6270... You will need that to id the pump. Most of the kits come from:

. I thought they all included valve discs. I know some Stude suppliers have resold them without instructions; maybe without some of the parts, too. Crap in the valves is very common, since there is no filter before the pump. Sometimes just taking the pump apart and cleaning it is all that's needed. Mike M.

the post was 5 or 6 years ago. I've since talked to the poster and it sounds like he might have gotten lucky back then - bending is needed.

The current pump is not pumping at all. I've taken it apart, blown carb cleaner through the valves ( not removable), and nada. It looks to be an Airtex 4227 - the arms aren't bendable. I'll put a carter in as soon as I finish cleaning/sealing the tank. I'll blow the lines out - if they have too much crap in them I should probably replace those as well. There were signs that this car sat without moving for a long time.

thx, Jeff

Mike wrote:

That's the place I was thinking of. All the kits I've purchased have come without valves; the Stude factory instructions say they are non-serviceable but I don't see why. they look the same as all the others.

nate

Ahhh... I don't like the new Airtex pumps I would try to source a rebuildable original if you could. I have an NOS one available but it is the earlier style, I think you want one with a metal bowl.

nate

Jeff Grohs wrote:

Nate, did you buy them from The Cellar? The kits I got from them had new valve discs and springs; and offered a brake rivet as a retainer, if you couldn't salvage the original 'mushroom" type. There are some good pictures of the pump rebuild, including valves, at:

. I think Stude used to supply a replacement valve body, with the valves installed. Mike M.

Nope, I *think* I got them from Ted H. before he sold out to Fairborn. I haven't bought anything direct from "The Cellar." The kits sold for the R1/R2 pumps have new "mushroom" retainers included, is why I mentioned it.

nate

I just drained the last of the gas out of the tank after removal. plenty of jellied varnish ( or whatever that crap is). On closer inspection of the new filter I'd put in - and driven for about 5 miles before the car konked out - it had some of that junk in it already. Most assuredly what killed the pump - I'll try a little more cleaning to see if it can be revived...

Any suggestions for properly cleaning out the hardline between the tank and the pump? If the tank was gunked up, the may be as well. Should I just plan on replacing the lines?

thx, jeff

Nate Nagel wrote:

Go to your local NAPA store and get a new pump. Their p/n is M2211. I have had good sucess using these pumps.