'58 289 flightomatic rear engine seal

Unfortunately, I think the easy way to do this involves pulling the drivetrain, separating the engine and trans, getting the engine on a stand, and flipping it upside down.

Even more unfortunately, this plan involves lots of "while you're in theres" (ask me how I know this.)

nate

Most likely that leak is the pan gasket. Studebaker rear seals rarely leak. The front seal is another story though...

JT

jab-ph wrote:

Sure, it's just easier to work on it with the engine out. It's the removing and replacing the pan that is the hard part, honestly. To give yourself room to work, remove the starter and also maybe take the bellcrank off the center pivot of the steering, and drop the center pivot out of the crossmember (you'll need to remove the long grease fitting.) Hopefully that's all you'll need to do to get the pan out, although you might have to jack up the engine and put some blocks of wood under the mounts if you are using "R3" style motor mounts.

If you are determined to R&R the pan in the car, the rear main is almost there at that point. However if the front of the torque converor and flexplate are dry it's probably the pan gasket. (you'll be able to see better once you get the pan off and also the little splash shields; you will probably want to remove and paint those since you'll be right there and they'll be much easier to get off with the pan out of the way.)

nate

jab-ph wrote:

Yep.

In order to drop the pan, you must remove the starter, drop the exhaust (if only a single exhaust), and remove the front steering bellcrank assembly and slide the bell crank off to the side.

After dropping the pan, remove the oil pump and drop the rear bearing cap. Most likely, the protruding crankshaft section after the seal will be dry which will confirm the tired oil pan gasket.

An aggresive oil drip on my old Avanti (especially when running) turned out to be a bad pan gasket.

JT

jab-ph wrote:

I agree with Grumpy. It is the pan gasket. Try this first. Drain the oil. Then invest in a can of aerosol brake cleaner, and squirt - and squirt - and squirt - etc.which will remove any and all outside grease, dirt and oil. In fact I use the whole can. Allow this to dry - which won't take long, Then what I do is to purchase s long handled 1/2" paint brush. I then apply blue silicone sealer very liberally [on the U shaped pan area and the engine block] using the brush to daub the sealer up into the 3/4" crack between the pan and the bell housing plate. I try to let the whole ball of wax set for 24 hours. Then fill the engine up with your favorite oil and see if the leak han't stopped. I have done several V-8's using this method and most recently my OHV-6 mega miler. The results [at least for me] have been VERY satisfactory.

I just succesfully replaced the rear main seal and oil pan gasket on my

63 G.T. this weekend. Shure is nice without the leaks. It still leaked after reassembly and then I found that the rubber line from the block to the metal line for the oil pressure gauge was leaking. Oh well, at least I have a new seal and pan gasket,even if I didn't need it. I hate when that happens. The old seal looked great. I won't make that mistake again. Also had to shorten the new cork seal for the rear part of the pan about 1/2 inch as it was too long to fit in the channel. I did not have to remove the steering bell crank but to do a Lark it is probably so. If you would like some tips over the phone,e-mail me your phone number to{ jimmijim8 at yahoo dot com }I have free long distance, and will call you and give some support if you like. jimmijim

Guys, Thanks for all your thoughts on this issue! I'm going to delay this project for a bit but will then revisit it within a month. So I'll keep all these tips and put them to good use at that time.

replying to Grumpy AuContraire, Webjak wrote: LOL, Studebaker rear main seal is a notorious leaker.

I agree with Grumpy the pan is more of the problem although the rear main can leak and should always be replaced if the pan is off.