Bracket for 352

We just did a 689 mile trip in the Hawk, and discovered a number of things. It does not like to climb mountains using 89 octaine fuel that has the ethenol additive, but does very well on 93.

But the biggest lesson learned is that we must switch to an alternator, the generator, just like it did back when I was a kid in the 50's cannot handle lights, wipers, and defroster, in a stop and go traffic jam..........just no way.

On our way out to the Shrock Brothers we had some rain and some stop and go, but all in day time, and we had no problems. When we left their place, we made a wrong turn, in the rain and on the way to State College Pa a semi, lost its fuel tank. The traffic was a mess, and with no lights on the intersate, we needed all the acessories on.

Coming home today was all rain, and major tie ups.

I need to know how to wire up an alternator, but more important who's make and WHO MAKES or could PROVIDE me photos of a mounting bracket(s) for it.

Don't, please, say its simple, cause maybe it is easy for you, but difficult for me and we are talking about a non Studebaker block but the PACKARD 352 Block.

Can the amp meter be used or is that too difficult or not worth doing?

Thanks Bill

Reply to
Bill Glass
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Bill,

that's one of those things that's just easier to do than describe. Probably the easiest swap would be using a Chrysler alternator; with that you could likely reuse your existing bracket and just make spacers out of small pieces of steel water pipe. The trick is getting the pulley to line up; if you can get that right, the rest is cake.

A Delco 10SI alternator is the classic swap, but would be a little more difficult due to the thick single boss on the bottom, things might not line up right.

I believe that you can get at your FLAPS a universal chrome alternator bracket that looks like it might replace the stock Stude stuff with some carefully drilled holes.

I would not use the stock ammeter with an alternator with an output significantly over 40 amps. I'd also cut open the wiring harness and replace the wire from the alternator to the ammeter and then back to the starter solenoid with a heavier gauge wire - 8 or 6 gauge if you are using a really beefy alternator - in that case. Definitely use an ammeter rated for the output of the alternator, or else just run the alternator output straight to the starter solenoid, use a *voltmeter* in place of the ammeter and just use the voltmeter as a binding post for the accessories (both wires that would have connected to the ammeter will be landed on the "+" terminal of the voltmeter.)

I don't like one wire alternators, but if you go with a 10SI or 12SI, Speedway sells a conversion harness that will allow one to be used without a warning light. It works well; I have one on my '55 coupe.

good luck,

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

I took the bracket on my 289 generator off, FLATTENED it out on the back end.. then got a 3 wire GM alternator, internal regulator. eyeballed where the pulley needed to be to line up the belt, and looked at the front mounting hole for the original generator..was it correct or not? using IT to mount the alternator on.. IF SO, then I went back to the bench, measured the alternator mounting bracket-the LONG one, and cut/welded a piece of 3/16" steel onto the back end of the gen bracket, allowing the alternator to 'just' slip in..

HOPEFULLY, this will now mount and hold the alternator pulley in proper position.. if not, take a torch and widen the slots for the bracket mounting bolts as needed..

L_____I original bracket....

L_________ before the second bracket

L__I_____ after the new mount installed..

ASSUMING, you get a 60 or 70 amp alternator my advice is DO NOT USE the existing wiring..

you need a hot wire from the key switch to one of the side plug terminals on the alternator..

the OTHER small wire can connect to the hot wire on the back of the alternator-the output wire..

and the OUTPUT wire SHOULD BE at least 10 gauge, with soldered terminals on the end.

the other end of this can go to the battery direct..

if you want the 'idiot light' on the dash to show you when its charging, then the second wire on the side plug ( i DO need to recheck this to make certain I got the right wire) goes to the dash, TO one side of a small 3 watt lamp, and the OTHER terminal of the lamp goes TO a 12 volt source..

IF you use a GENUINE 1 wire GM alternator, then you do NOT have the 2 small wires.. just the big battery wire..

--Shiva--

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me

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