brake master cylinder - 60 Hawk

I've been using a crescent wrench [ under the car] Yes,the wrench part of the cap is square.

Yes, a socket should work. What you have is a "four point" plug. You'll have to find a 12 point socket of the right size as a six pointer will probably not work.

You might consider finding a six point plug from an old cylinder as most of the "new" plugs are simple plastic and not very durable.

It is also a good practice to remove and replace the (same) plug to assure that it stays free. The location of the cylinder makes it prone to corrosion.

JT

Out of curiosity,I tried to fit a socket to it. The only 12 pointers I have are 1&1/16th,and 1&1/4. too small,too big. I ordered my MC from CarQuest,luckily it came with a metal cap.

Funny you should mention that. It's one inch square, with rounded corners It's also brass. I suppose I should be thankful, although it probably means this is the orignal master cylinder. Next project, sometime in the next 100 years, is to upgrade to dual master, and disc brakes, but that's going to be a couple years down the road. I'm tired of wrenching, would like to kick back and relax for a bit.

I have a set of 8-point sockets that work well on square plugs, but for the master cylinder I generally just use a pair of Channel-Lock pliers to remove the cap (or a Crescent wrench if too tight for pliers). Paul Johnson

Using a 12 pt socket will usually just round of the cap, since they are usually alum or plastic.

What I have found to work is to use a large, if possible "blunt" screwdriver...Drive it down into the outer edge of the plug while at the same time rotating it (the plug). You have enough room to spin it . Wire (soft) brush the plug threads before tightening down...not too tight. It's a good idea to have a spare for that "last time" you remove it.....

You CAN get 8-point sockets if you look hard enough. I have a few, in 1/2" drive. They are the best thing going for square-head nuts and pipe plugs. If a square fastener is really tight, chances are a 12-point socket will only round off the corners, as the fit is very approximate.

I just removed some oil gallery plugs from a Champion six. Very tight! I used the 3/8" square sleeve that couples together the two halves of one of those double-ender distributor wrenches, attached to a 3/8" drive ratchet to bust them loose.

Gord Richmond

Yeah, but it's the only choice if you don't have a four point socket.

Besides, ya gotta stop usin' that cheap Chinese crap!

JT

Barry wrote:

That's good. Hopefully it it a six pointer rather than a four point.

Do you have a CarQuest part number? I should get an extra one for the '56 Power Hawk.

JT

drive. They are

I haven't seen an 8 point socket in these heeyah pawts ever... Sheeeeeyit, I don't even have any myself.

But you're right, the lowest point size to accommodate will run the lowest risk of damage. I hesitate to use channel lock pliers and the like as I've had the caps just crumble.

JT

(Who spent much too long a time in aerospace where the correct tool is always a must...)

CarQuest MC #E2796 It is a 4 pointer,but at least it's metal. My Lark MC was replaced before I bought the car,it had a plastic cap. CHEAP plastic..

I tried a channel lock tonight, but from the top. No go. I will have to slide under the car and see if I can get it from underneath. Failing that, I guess a trip to Princess Auto or KMS Tools, for something that might work.

I have one strip of belt line to put on, and my new tailpipe extensions, and I'm done, except for the brakes. A few runs around the block and back to the painter for a few ooops fixes.

Just in time to garage it for the winter. :(

Grumpy AuC>

Thanks... I know that the plastic types get destroyed pretty easily.

JT