Engine enamel question

If you are not looking at a rattle can, that's what it means! You have to reduce the paint, and add hardener. I have used PPG Delstar enamel on many, many engines, and love it! (Additives needed.)

That said, use a good mask when applying, this is not child's play! Also, I don't know if you have taken the surface down to bare metal or not... if you have, use expoxy primer first! WITH A GOOD MASK!!

Dave Lester

Hi Tim,

As a rule pa> While the engine is in the process of being rebuilt on my 56 President, I'm

Tim, As Dave says, "wear a good mask" NOT a paper one! Today's paints have Isocyanides in them, (cyanide) And will (and can) kill you! If you are going to paint it yourself, spend the $45-$50 bucks and get a respirator with replaceable cartridges. And when done, put the mask back in a plastic bag and seal it up! This keeps the cartridges from absorbing moisture and becoming "worthless" I buy new cartridges EVERY other day in the shop, and we have all the proper equipment, like a down draft paint booth! Your health is not worth trying to save a few bucks on a mask!

Jim Turner

I bought a quart can that is labeled Sherwin Williams Acrylyd Acrylic Enamel. I wonder why they didn't suggest these extras when I placed the order.

Yep, I already bought a good 3M respirator. I need to replace the cartridges before this paint job begins. It worked great for the rust removal and priming of the other body parts.

Thanks for the heads-up, Tim

The only way to spray any paint with Isocyanates is with a positve airflow resperator. As of three years ago I have not heard of any resperator that will filter out isocyanates. Problem with them is that you don't know your getting harmed until it is too late. Your body will build up a tolorance, and then when you pass that level you can get blisters on your skin, and on your lungs etc.

You will know when you have exceeded your level, if you walk by a freshly painted car, and you start itching and your skin doesn't feel right. If you get any isocyante residue on you, or your clothing use COLD water and flush your body.

There are many companies that make high heat paint with an exact color match to your engine colors. If your going for a show car, that is one thing, but if you plan on driving it, your going to spend HUGE money for the activator, reducer, retarder, fish eye preventer. One pint of activator cost me $63.00, and your only going to need about three cap fulls to add to the paint.

The other thing they don't tell you, once you open the pint can, and pour out the required amount, you will need to wash the cap in lacquer thinner, and also wipe the screw threads on the can. If you don't, you will never open that can again.

Bill

Well, we go through the "activator" by the gallons! and we buy 4 gallons at a time. Never gets a chance to harden! We also buy the clear by the case, usually 6 at a time, and the "good guy" price on that kind of volume is down around $125 a gallon. (and another 4% if we pay by the 10th) My DuPont bill is about $15K a month.

Remember, when NOT using the mask, put it in a sealed bag!

Really, a fresh air respirator is the best way to go, but, that's about $750+ for the set up.

Jim Turner

Maybe I should just return the quart can and get a couple of spray cans. Opinions?

Catalyzed paint will have a much longer life especially on parts subject to high temperatures such as engine blocks etc.

JT

Tim Ulrich wrote:

Gordon,

I agree, this sounds like the best plan. I'll still have to get the parts in primer though to prevent further rust.

Thanks, Tim

painter to do it,

The entire ChromaBase/ChromaClear is illeagl in Westchester County here in NY. I had to drive two counties up north to buy the activator. If you will be in Omaha, I will bring my Uro Activator and ChromaClear Activator, and you can try to open them

I cannot even dispose them thru local EPA regulations, even the monthly toxic pickup won't take them.

Bill

Put them in your favorite politician's trash but be sure to remove your fingerprints...

JT

Bill Glass wrote: