Floor shifter with 3 speed overdrive?

Chip, I did that many years ago, '54 coupe with a 259, T86 and overdrive. I used a Dragfast shifter, or maybe a Western Auto no-name clone. Not a real bad shifter, anyway. I had to fabricate home-made brackets out of angle iron, and mounted the shifter high, necessitating quite a bit of floor cutting. It CAN be done.

I also have a '64 Daytona hardtop here with a T85-OD, and it has a Hurst shifter in it. Not sure how it mounts up, but it works.

If I were doing this from scratch, nowadays, I'd comb the U-pick wrecking yards for the floor shifter out of a Monza, Skyhawk, or maybe Camaro/Firebird; the kind where the shifter actually mounts in a well bolted to the floor. It's a 4-speed shifter, but it ought to be easy enough to disable/remove the un-needed reverse components, and set up the

1-2, 3-4 to work R-1, 2-3 instead. Mount that in the floor hump, and fabricate offset linkage rods as needed. Having the shifter in the floor reduces rattle a great deal.

Gord Richmond

Thanks for the info, Gord.

Chip

shifter, anyway. I

and set up the

Chip, I just recently (last month) installed a floor shift, 60 lark. Like Gordon said you'll have to lift the shifter quite a bit to clear the solenoid. I had to make a bend in one of the shift rods but I don't remember which one. The floor cutout is quite large, I haven't finished the interior/boot selection yet. My shift was an used hurst shifter but I'm guessing it was made for a 3sp no OD truck as the handle was too long also. I also ended up making a spacer to place the handle more toward the center of the vehicle, with bucket seats no issues with clearance but bench could be a diff story. If you want some pics I could get some emailed to you in the next couple of days. Let me know Russ

If you shorten the arms coming down from the shifter, you don't have to raise it quite as high. My kit had two holes in those arms and I cut the farther ones off. Downside is the throw will be longer.