Is this a little high or right on price for a rebuilt PS control valve?

Man, it sure is pretty! Honestly, the seals can be bought to rebuild that thing for under $20 and, if I remember correctly, those things should go for $150 or so rebult.

Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62

Barry, What about the ball and socket joint in the valve ? Yes, you can re-seal one cheaply enough,but you can still have just a non leaking worn out control valve that cause play in your steering wheel. The one in my Lark doesn't leak since I also replaced the seals that you mentioned. But there is some play in it. I would like to get all of the play out of it. My question to the group is this ,does anyone know of a good source to replace the worn out ball and socket joint in the control valve? I would guess one from an early Ford product would fit the bill. Re-seal and replace the ball and socket ,then you have one that is properly rebuilt. I still think the $475 price for the one on E-bay is nuts, Joe

Unless you are absolutely certain the play is in the control valve, I'd sure look elsewhere for play first (like the center pivot pin). Is your play when running or shut off? The Bendix set will always have play in it when it isn't running. Paul Johnson

There is a small amount of 'play' built into the mechanism to actuate the valve. If you are trying to assess the system to see where the play is, you have to look at it with the engine running. You can get the cups that go on either side of the ball, new from Stephen Allen. I don't think it would be very likely that they are worn though. It also makes a difference how the valve is put back together. It is possible to get it just a little bit tighter than the last guy that did it. When I took mine apart I actually found out that the pin that is supposed to be holding the actuator spring was missing. Things like that can make a big difference. Tim K.

Paul Johns> >