Radio Dials

For starters -- yes, I'll admit it. I'm a dealer, specializing in vintage car radios. However this is not spam; I've got a dilemma, and it's probably not foreign to many of you here.

A customer sent me a radio from a 57 Golden Hawk. I have yet to begin working on it, simply because the glass dial has the dial markings silk-screened on it, and these numbers have pretty much flaked off. I've seen this problem before, mainly with earlier Philco radios from the 50-51 bullet nose cars, but never have I seen it so bad that it is simply unusable.

A lot of cars have dial markings on the glass. In most cases these are clear plastic with the numbers etched in. Some even use real glass with the etched numbers. These are easy -- simply remove the rest of the paint with Wesley's Bleche Wite, repaint, and clean off the excess. But these are silk-screened, and once gone there is no way to reconstruct this dial.

A lot of repro parts are available out there, even for radios. I have done an exhaustive search for such a dial, and have come up empty. One dealer told me of a Dan Skidmore who supposedly has repro dials, but I've called several times with no answer. As for making one, repro dials for some radios (Chevy trucks for example) are made by printing the white lettering onto a clear sticky transparency and attaching it to the back of a plain glass. That might work here, as I believe there is enough material to photograph it, put it on a computer screen, and recreate the artwork using Photoshop. But nobody seems to have the means of printing in white. This includes a number of people who actually specialize in reproducing old radio dials -- they can't reproduce this one.

Has anyone here found such a source? Does anyone here have ideas? The only answer so far has been to locate another radio and steal the glass -- assuming it's better, but that's not an acceptable answer if we want to preserve as many of these as we can. I can't believe everyone reading this has a Studebaker with a perfect silk-screened dial on the radio.

All comments are appreciated.

Reply to
Gary Tayman
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I have experienced the same kind of problem in my other hobby of antique radio restoration. I would suggest the following: get ahold of or find someone who has the dial glass for a radio for the Goldden Hawk and is willing to remove it from their radio. They would scan it in and create a JPG file of it and e-mail it to you. You in turn can go out and buy a Brother P-Touch labeling machine with the optional computer port, and then use it to print out on laminated clear label a print of the JPG image of the scan. It is possible that I may still have an extra one of these radios lying around here and I could remove the glass and scan it for you, but I'd have to figure out where the hell the radio may still be, if anywhere anymore.

The radios were made for Studebaker by Delco division of GM.

Good luck!

-George-

-63 GT Hawk

-63 Champ

-56 SkyHawk

Reply to
reichsrundfunk

Let me ask tomorrow, as part of my job I deal with a lot of custom engraving and silkscreening (for graphic fire alarm annunciator panels,) often on Plexiglas. I can see if my local supplier's process would work on real glass, in which case I could have him make you a whole run of them. I can get pricing and availability this week, but I'd need some artwork to show him. I do have a '55 radio in my garage but AFAIR the font is different from an early Hawk, and I don't know what year you're dealing with.

thanks,

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

HAH!

read my last post and then you will see the humor in the following statement...

our technicians use P-touches with the clear tape ALL THE TIME for field modifying annunciator panels, but only when the customer is not around. Unless you a) see the tech do it or b) have way too much free time on your hands and a magnifying glass it's real hard to tell the difference if the tech. does a good job. I love me some P-touches...

Of course, most of the newer annunciators have the graphics printed on a plastic screen, so if you need to make a new face for one, you just plot the new artwork on vellum and slide it in (looks exactly the same.) I'm talking about the older style ones that had silkscreening on smoked plexi covered by clear plexi for protection.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

I think 56's are the same; Bondo says he can do them. He's supposed to be doing one for me - maybe he will chime in and add his two cents....

Reply to
Dan

Thanks for your help, and please let me know what you find out!

I've never paid much attention to the P-Touch products, but if I can make use of this I'd be willing to buy one. I come across radio dials every so often that are in rather crappy condition, and each time I find myself scouring the countryside for a replacement, only to "live with" what's already there. Some models, like Corvettes, have new repro parts available, and I usually tell customers to purchase them and I'll install them at no extra charge. Some outfits, including Antique Automobile Radio in Palm Harbor, have made runs of certain radio dials, but they have very few left.

The two types I could use are: (1) white numbers on the inside of the glass, such as with 50's Studebakers, and (2) white on black, for several Mopar models as well as 66-67 Galaxies and 46-48 Ford Rotomatics. The latter one sounds easier; the ones I've seen are printed on bumper sticker material, and simply peel & stick over the original dial. The P-Touch might be useful there as well, but is the finish glossy? I'd prefer a satin finish for the black ones.

Yes, I have my share of antique radios as well. I'm President of our local radio club, which hosts regular swap meets in Sarasota (in fact it's this coming Saturday). The radio I listen to in the shop every day is an Atwater Kent 60 with F-4 speaker. I've got a number of others -- nothing rare or spectactular, but certainly enough to keep me warm and impress visitors.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

If someone could give me a good scan of the dial you want (what year Hawk is this, anyway?) and exact dimensions of the glass, I could get you a quote. The guy I'm thinking of says "no problem." If the dial was originally white silkscreened on flat glass, this would be exactly as original. Drop me an email at njnagel at comcast dot net if you want to deal directly with the guy, but I might be able to get you a better price if I handle initial negotiations myself (I've thrown him a lot of work lately.) Same address works if you have artwork to send me.

Since I've got your attention two things - first, is it possible/ practical to convert a stock '55 pushbutton AM radio to work on a 12V negative ground car without destroying it? Second, just a comment, I just bought a circa 1958 Blaupunkt table radio so that I can take the radio in my kitchen to the office with me... hasn't even arrived yet. Supposed to be "good working order" we will see.

hope this helps,

nate

Reply to
N8N

Just reread your post and I see now that you did say it was for a '57. If you haven't found one by next weekend I might be able to get one from JP to use as a sample, if he doesn't mind me taking apart one of his old radios.

nate

Reply to
N8N

I personally don't offer 12 volt conversions -- rather I suggest a conversion to AM/FM stereo. Radio looks original but has new components offering far better performance.

However if you indeed want to keep the AM radio in the 12 volt car, there is a dealer I chat/trade parts with in Lakewood, California named Meade Grazier. If interested I can get you in touch with him.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

Reply to
Pat Drnec

eh, I still have one of those hidden stereo deals, I will probably use that with a blank plate instead. It is a cool looking radio though.

nate

Reply to
N8N

I do give out coupons for $20 off for repeat customers.

As for specs and pricing, this is not really a commercial forum, so I don't want to take up bandwidth here. Anyone interested can visit my website.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

Let me throw in an update.

The customer called and said he has found another radio which he believes has a good dial glass. In case it doesn't work out, I've been spending some time checking it out. Those P-Touch labelers may work, but the local stores don't have the tape I need, and nobody at the stores has any idea how to use it. However a local sign shop can indeed print this dial in white on a clear label material, and most likely on a sheet with ten or so dials for future needs. So all I need is the artwork -- and I'll cross that bridge if/when I need to.

Thanks for all your comments/ideas so far.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

I silk screen printed about 12 of them a few years ago. It was no big deal and I still have the artwork. The job is relativly easy, all one needs is a good screen printer, and some ceramic ink. The problem comes after the job is done as you cannot re-claim the screen as the catilyst hardens in the mesh.

On some of the dials there were "white" bands at the top, "to scatter the light", or to hide the bulbs cannot figure which. If you need the artwork maybe I can dig itup for you. One good thing is if your screener screws up he can wipe off the un-cured ink with solvent and re print. It is only after about 90 min and the ink is there forever.

Technologies have changed since those days when they were just printed with ordinary enamel ink.

Reply to
Bill Glass

Yours is different, I discovered that by accident. I will discuss it with you up at Gary's.

Reply to
Bill Glass

I can make you a "water slide" decal for the dial, but it won't look right. Even using a clear film that is adhesive backed won't work as the glue/adhesive will give off a refective satin finish to the dial. Another way out is to print on clear acetate and then sandwhich the two pieces together. Clear over clear. I have an ALPS printer which is the only printer that prints white ink. However, I would need to find a source of clear acetate or plastic that will not melt the print head. If you want to try a water slide I can make one up. I am still waiting for a supply of "thin film" decal stock

Reply to
Bill Glass

I'll keep you posted on all of this.

Thank you EVERYONE for your kind, helpful responses! As you all know, usenet can be a virtual sewer at times, but my visit here has been surprisingly pleasant and cordial.

Uh, I don't have a Studebaker, but of course a number of them would be on my list if I ever had the money and space to buy more cars. What I DO drive is a 64 Thunderbird, a project car that's sort of a rolling restoration. This car is actually the reason I got involved in these radios in the first place -- fix radios for T-Bird parts. Today the business is full time; I also write for a Florida-based magazine (Cruise News) and I frequent and sponsor numerous car shows all over southwest Florida. So you could say that I'm running a business doing what I love to do. If any of you find yourselves around the west coast of Florida, be sure to stop in at a car show and say hello.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

I've been running the 6v radio in my modified '53 on negative ground. I home-built a switching power supply to drop the 12v down to 6.5v DC @8A to run the radio. Its a buck regulator so no polarity inverting transformers. If it was using the original mechanical vibrator tube, the radio is not polarity sensitive at all. The tube heaters don't care and the vibrator circuit rectifier tube is wired to put out the correct polarity for the B+. I ran it on my bench that way (neg ground) while I was rebuilding it with new capacitors and doing alignment. I have a solid state replacement in it now and those ARE polarity sensitive so I got the neg ground version. I looked for someone building a switching supply for this purpose but the only ones I could find were only rated 4A and the 8 tube stude radio pulls over

7A. Faced with that, I rolled my own. The other alternative would be to switch all the 6v tubes out for 12v versions and rewind or replace the power transformer for the B+. I thought the switcher was less trouble. Only thing is either way when you are done you only have AM : (

Jeff in ND

Reply to
JH

You're exactly right on the polarity -- most, but not all, vibrator-type radios will run either way. If you install a solid state vibrator, you need to use the correct one for your polarity. You're also right about the current draw -- typical current for 6 volt radios is around 7-8 amps. A 12 volt conversion for the radio would consist of using a 12 volt type vibrator, 12 volt equivalent tubes (12BA6 instead of 6BA6, etc.), and a 12 volt transformer with similar ratings. Such a conversion will reduce the current draw to around 3-4 amps.

I've never been one to offer such conversions, simply because this is a makeshift design that I don't want to stand behind. People ask if I can modify the radio for 12 volts "but keep it original"! You can't do that! You either keep it original or you modify it, and as long as it's being modified, why not make it AM/FM stereo? I can guarantee this product; I can't guarantee a 12 volt mod. There are always exceptions, but as a rule of thumb if the car remains 6 volts, the car and its radio are being kept original. If converted to 12 volts, the car is no longer original, it usually becomes a driver, and it's more practical to have an AM/FM stereo.

Reply to
Gary Tayman

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