RMI-25 replacement for Picking rust out the Freeze Plugs

IMHO, there is absolutely NO snake oil product that will remove the sludge/crud from the block. THE ONLY WAY is to knock out the plugs and dig it out. Studebaker George

63Avanti wrote:

Experience in this case would not answer the question about the sludge. The only way to check would be to knock out the freeze plugs after the treatment and see if there was sludge. If there were sludge you would have a positive answer that it didn't work. If there were no sludge you would not have a positive answer that it worked or not because you don't know if there was sludge there in the first place.

That would be like using aspirin to cure gonorrhea. Avanti guys...sheesh Dont'cha want to get icky dirty? There is no way a chemical can clean all the crud out of the back end of the block. The best method that gives the best results (short of removal and 'hot tanking') is to remove the screw in plugs, and the Welch plugs and pressure wash with intervals of Dilatation & Curettage with a coat hanger. Gross, but effective. Wear snorkel gear. (Either that, or hire some kid like Matthew) Jeff (this is getting as bad as cross posting to every NG....) Rice

"63Avanti" wrote...

Ask Calvin. He likes talking to people who won't listen to good advice Jeff

"63Avanti" wrote...

Okay, how about a straight answer...THAT SHIT WON"T FIX YER F***ING PROBLEM. If you want to waste your money, send it to me or any of the other guys who "ATTACKED" you. And have a happy new year! Studebaker George

63Avanti wrote:

You sir, were given the answer several times, and choose not to listen to real world experience, deferring to tests and testimonials. No one attacked you, but some commented on the futility of your question; argumentum ad hominem . When you respond in kind, then the verbal give and take commences. That is what discussion groups are all about. My late father taught me a couple of good axiom's that I operate with to this day.....

1) There is no such thing as a stupid question...( But there is such a thing as a stupid answer) All questions do deserve a straight answer. Sometimes the verbal reply may not be as complete, or sophisticated as it could be, but the info was in there...

2) It's OK to say "I don't know"... (as long as you follow it up with "But I'll go and find out".. That is what happened here. Follow up info was provided to you after some further research. Research that was so easy to find on Google, that this should probably have been your first step.

I do hope you find the answer to your question. Your Avanti will appreciate it. Jeff

"63Avanti" wrote...

I don't see the replies as attacks. They are just various ways of stating that there is no way to know if it works or not, so why chance it?

And nobody has yet pointed out that if this chemical DID miraculously dissolve all the rust and crud in the back of the block, it would also likely dissolve what little remains of the frost plugs, because the backsides of them have not so miraculously TURNED INTO rust and crud, too.

Sure there are chemicals that dissolve rust and crud. But they have to make contact with the rust and crud to dissolve it. That rust and crud in the back of an engine block is so settled, and so compacted that it's practically impermeable to liquids. A little bit of the surface of the mass will be softened and removed, but the chemical will be spent before the bulk of the crud is dissolved.

Even the hot caustic tanks at the engine rebuild shop won't fully remove that stuff, and it'll take the hide of an armadillo.

Hope this helps,

Gord Richmond

I don't know. I used some of that stuff. And afterward the crud had a minty after taste. Just kidding. But I do have a fresh set of freeze plugs and a rain suit. I will get around to the big blast eventually. It does not sound to hard. I will just have to clear the floor of the garage completely of anything I do not want soaked. Reading the above posts did get me thinking. Am I going to knock stuff free that will get stuck in the heater valve? Every time maintenance does any plumbing repair on my building some of my sink valves get clogged with sediment and have to be pulled and cleaned out. One workaround I could try would be simple. Don't attach the heater lines right away. After the new plugs are in place plumb the lines to bypass the hear. When it gets running I can take the Hawk to a radiator shop and have the system flushed. Then plumb the heater lines when it gets back home. I have a freshly rebuilt 62 Hawk heater valve and do not want to muck it up. Although there are fuel, oil, trans fluid filters; I have never heard of a coolant filter on a car.

Tony in Austin