Anyone here know of a source for the hollow-end milling cutter that one is supposed to use to mill off the swaged shoulder on Studebaker wheel studs so the drum can be separated from the hub without damage?
Simply using a press to push out the stud will not do the job; the swage tends to broach out the hole in the hub, making new studs fit too loosely.
I've checked Northern Tool and McMaster-Carr, and drew a blank.
I know the darn thing exists.
Gord Richmond
I have never used a cutter. I take a "zip wheel" and go around the swaged part of the stud (on all of them, of course!) and then a few well placed taps will drop the hub from the drum. You can rig up something to use a press to remove the studs from the hub afterwards if you want, but I assume you are wanting to use the drum on flanged axles...if so the hub will go on the scrap pile. After you remove the drum, take the wheel and gently go around the holes on the inside to remove and displaced metal so the drum will lay flush. At this point you can also chuck the drum on most any brake lathe to true it up if needed. The stud holes don't need to be precise to be used on the flanged alxe as the center hole locates it and the lug nuts hold it in place. If you want to use a new drum on an old hub or watever, I wouldn't bother with re-swaging the drum to the hub. Studebaker George
Yeah, that'd certainly work, but it's sort of slow. Having the right tool would make the job so easy.
I've got good drums on bad hubs, or bad drums on good hubs, or just drums on the wrong hubs for my immediate needs.
May have to try my hand at making a cutter.
Gord Richmond
How many do you need to do? Between one and few dozen off?
Drill and ream a suitable core hole in a length of drill rod. File or mill four teeth in the end, leave a narrow land on the tip of each tooth.
Harden in oil or water..depending on steel type, polish and temper back to medium straw. Hone cutting clearance on the lips, Run at 100 SFPM or less, with lots of coolant.
I have made hollow mills for running down STEEL bolts, by these methods..and run HUNDREDS of parts before needing to touch up the edges.
Be not afraid!
supposed to use
Gord, Assuming that the hub/drum assembly is off the car......I take a large coarse burr in a high speed air grinder and grind the heads of the lugs off. Wear safety glasses! Stay in the center of the head, and you will see when you get close because a faint outline of the stud diameter will start to appear. This doesn't take long, and at this point the stud can be easily tapped out from behind. Look at the stud when you get it out, and you will see that the swaged area is somewhat wedge or cone shaped, so tapping it out from the back side does not broach out the hole like you mentioned. Paul
supposed to use
tends to broach
a saws-all with the long "torch or rescue" grade blades works just dandy.
I believe the tool Gordon is looking for is called an Annular cutter, any of the big tool companys should have them by that name. Lamar
supposed to use
be separated
tends to broach
Now that I know what to look for, I found some in the MSC book:
snipped-for-privacy@mississippi.net wrote:
supposed to use
be separated
tends to broach
Hmm, that link doesn't work; takes me to a "cannot find" page. I did search for annular cutters, and found Haugen Rotobroaches, one of which looks like it might work, but they all have a special 3/4" shank to fit a special type of chuck.
The tool I want has a 1/2" shank, and will work in a standard drill press.
Gord Richmond
On Thu, 24 May 2007 15:02:31 GMT, Gordon Richmond wrote:Man you are hard to please(G), try a search for starrett hole saw in 9/16 dia and see if that will do it. Lamar
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