Thanks for advice and yet I need more

I don't think that that hole needs to be precise; you could just scribe it and then grind out to the scribe mark with a die grinder.

Not really, no. However, they aren't hard to put back in when you know the trick. Get a length of 5/16" or 3/8" steel fuel line slightly longer than an axle. Use some steel wire that is smaller in diameter than the little hole in the thrust block, pass the wire through the fuel line and through the thrust block. put just enough of a bend in the end of the wire that the thrust block will stay on the end of the wire and not move. hold the fuel line at the other end and pull back on the wire so that the thrust block is held against the end of the fuel line. You can then use this as a "handle" to insert the thrust block. When it is in place, hold it there with the fuel line and withdraw the wire, et voila, properly installed thrust block.

If it is the original axle, you will have to drill and tap the axle. Hopefully someone has a good pic of the factory location of the holes so you could duplicate that. You would also need to then drill vent holes at the top of the axle so that the grease doesn't push past the seals if you get a little overenthusiastic with the grease gun.

I haven't used the Fairborn axles, but others have so I'm sure they'll chime in if there are any "special instructions."

good luck,

nate

I have installed three sets in TT rears. Trust me on this, take the thrust blocks out and have someone with a lathe face the tit off of the blocks that were caused by the centering hole of the old axle. If you don't, two things will happen, once you set the end play it will become excessive in 400 or

500 miles after the tit starts to wear down ( the reason is the centering holes in the old axles were larger in diameter than they are in the flanged axles) and second you won't have to use as many shims for the end play setup.

Just wondering. If he were careful could he not grind those off with a Dremel tool if he doesn't have a friend with a lathe?

Hell, why bother with buying a Dremel tool. Chuck up those thrust blocks in a vise and hammer and chisel those little suckers off. A lot cheaper than doing it right.

Hey sidewalks have worked as flat grinding stones for a long time... you start out in the center where it's rough and do your finish work where the edging or seam tool makes that nice smooth finish. And if you're really picky, take it inside and put a nice finish on it by rubbing it on the garage floor. No need to go to Harbor Freight and spend $19.99 on a grinder.

Lee

Ron,

This is an interesting topic. You say the thrust block will wear down in 500 miles with the new Moser Axles and my end play will be out to whack? I am not happy to hear this!

I sent the poster an description on how I cut the 2 3/4" hole in my end plates and I will repeat it here for the forum:

1) Get a piece of scrap 3/4" plywood say 16"X16". 2) With a 2 1/4" hole saw drill 2 round blanks - Glue them or Air nail them together 3) Mount the round blanks in the center of the plywood (I air-nailed them in place) 4)The 2 round blanks serve as a centering device for the brake backing plate with the 1/4" hole already established in the blanks 5) Put the backing plate on the plywood template and mark the brake adjusting nibs on the plywood and drill the plywood so the backing plate sits flush to the plywood 6) Install the 2 3/4" holesaw in the drill press and drill the backing plate out with lots of cutting oil

Total cost of was $17.00 dollars for the 2 3/4" holesaw. ( I had the other holesaws and mandrils) I had my backing plates drilled out and finished in one hour.

A local machine shop will want $80.00. Phil Harris will do it for $15 but you have shipping involved.

Allen

Hey... That is just too simple to be brought up here! We want to use a GPS holesaw! Jeff

"Studebaker-R2-4-Me" wrote...

If you have "educated fingers" you could probably do a good job with a flat file, but it takes the right touch...

nate

I didn.t say the thrust blocks would wear due to the moser axles. If the tit that was formed on the thrust blocks due to years and mileage of wearing against the stock axles is not faced off, then the new axles would be riding on the tip of the tit (take it away Calvin) , consequently this little tit will wear down in fast order increasing end play. In my opinion, anything worth doing is worth doing right.

Yes, I meant the tit on the thrust block. When I installed my axles the thrust block were in place and I did not want to take them out. Hindsight is

20/20. Crap I wish they had fallen out to be able to inspect them! I will be checking that endplay after a few hundred miles.

Allen

Check those Tits!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1544810 Rear Axle Thrust Block Late 1957 cars & all 1958-64 cars with 44 model twin traction rear end (2 per car) $20.00

For $40.00 it would seem this would be easier.

it would be cheaper than machine shop labor.