Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the coil. I have 7 volts on the positive side of the coil and 1.25 on the negative side. Is this about right?
Chip
Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the coil. I have 7 volts on the positive side of the coil and 1.25 on the negative side. Is this about right?
Chip
Is your battery fully charged? I would expect to see at least 8-9V even while cranking.
Are you using the four terminal ballast? Those have two different resistances; one for the coil and one to drop the voltage to the control box, and one of them is a higher resistance than the other.
nate
I have 12.5 volts from the battery. The ballast has two terminals. The 7 volts on the + side of the coil is not while cranking. Chip
It should run OK on the 7 volts but try bypassing the ballast resistor and see if it helps.
If your system has a fusable link in it try bypassing it. It may have been made in China. Can you hold a plug lead while cranking (while grounded) and not get a jolt?
I'll give that a try.
Chip
"Alex Magdaleno" wrote:
No fusable link. I barely get a spark from the coil, none from the plugs.
Chip
"RPE" wrote:
I wouldn't use the dual ballest I would use the single. The dual was used for the lean burn cars. Send me a e-mail and I will send you the diagram for the single ballest system.
Actually the dual ballast was used on the early iterations of the control box; that wire is not used at all in the current production boxes. Apparently that ballast is built into the new boxes. I wired mine up for the dual ballast just in case I got stuck somewhere and had to use an old box. (it only took a minute or so to do the extra connection; that wire is still present in the new harnesses you get from MoPar)
nate
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