What do you use?

About a year or so ago - there was an article in Turning Wheels concerning motor oil in newly rebuilt engines. Obviously, I cannot find the article. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction? Or, better yet, what do you recommend. I have new everything in this engine - including the crankshaft.

Reply to
teddy bear
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This is just my opinion, but I would probably break it in on good quality dino squeezings and then switch over to a "fleet' synthetic like Rotella or Delo (note: both brands come in regular and synthetic)

If you feel like spending lots of $$$ on oil, you probably couldn't go wrong with Redline, but it ain't cheap. I have never used it myself but swear by their gear oils.

recent thread here on oil:

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and another:

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finally for true oilgeekery, check out bobistheoilguy.com

good luck

nate

Reply to
N8N

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use dino turd 15W40, do not use synthetic lubes with old style rope/laberinth seals or with RTV, use Hylomar for sealer everwhere, synthetic OK in auto tranny if not using cork clutch or band material.

Reply to
oldcarfart

Now I'll really start something! With the oils being as "good" as they are now, My old High School shop teacher, (and the reason I got into Studes) Also plays with airplanes and a LOT of motorcycles, he said he talked to an "old time" Harley rebuilder, and they use WD-40 for assembly! Otherwise, the rings will not seat, Because of the good lubrication the new oils provide. I dunno' but, Ron (rusty with oil) Johnson rebuilt the 5 cylinder radial engine in his 1941 Ryan PT22 airplane, and did it that way! He is also the same guy that rebuilt an antique midget racer a year ago, never fired it up, (push start) and went "racing" at Danville Illinois last July 4th! I told him he was nucking futz, but his comment was, "What did we learn in Power Lab?" and the answer is, if there is fuel, spark at the right time and compression, it HAS to run! And it did! He might be on the right track on the break in! Jim

Reply to
Jim Turner

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