2 questions about Subaru 87 gl-10 wagon, carbed

I have a '87 gl-10 wagon that has 2 problems that I'd like to fix, one intermitant, but potentially serious, the other constant, but a mere annoyance. I'll start with that one. The heater fan only works on "high". I recall reading somewhere that it's controlled by a series of ballast resistors, which I presume are buried deep in the dashboard somewhere. Are they easy to get to (ha!) or a real pain that would require ripping out the entire dash?

Second, more serious problem. The car occasionally, and without any discernable pattern, will suddenly lose power and stall. If it is going to happen, if will be a cold, but not neccessarily bitterly so (this morning it did it and it was 31-32, yesterday, at ~10 was fine), morning and it will happen within 2-3 miles of starting up. When it happens, the car will start up again and run without any further problem, if I let it sit for about 1 minute before restarting.

146k miles, automatic, carbed (oh how it wish it was FI).

Thanks for any insight on either problem.

Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Bowler
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The 1st problem I had on the '87 is the resistor it is very easy to get to in the front or bottom of the heater there is a plug & two screws take out the plug & the two screws and it is out , very easy,but the problem is to get it to go in without damaging it. Sometimes the coating gets interupted.

The second problem sounds like the fuel fiter needs a change. With some deicer put in the tank. When I had mine ( that I loved ) It was always something simple that I could do. I hope that either one of the things will work out for you.

Yes, the injected one would be nicer .

Reply to
odyssey

Don't know for sure on the newer GL, but on the older ones the heater fan resistors are mounted in the heater-core housing right above the heater control valve, up above the gas pedal. Two screws, and kind of a contortion to get to it, but do-able. Pulling the drivers seat will help a little. Look for a rectangular plastic cover about 1 1/2 by 2 inches with a 4 (or 6?) pin plug on it. If you find a donor car at a scrapyard (least expensive option), ask them to show you where it is.

I would guess it is the automatic choke's transition from closed to open. As a starting point, pull the air cleaner and spritz everything well with carb cleaner. You might also try jury-rigging the choke so that it is always open. Pump the gas pedal a bit to start the cold engine, and it'll run kinda rough for the first minute or so, but if that cures the stall, you'll know what you need to fix anyway. I have an '83 GL that has given dependable winter service for years w/o the automatic choke FWIW.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

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