2000 Outback My$tery Transmi$$ion Problem$

Oh Boy....am I glad I happened upon this group, whose members seem very knowlegeable and generous. If anyone has the time to comment on my situation, I'll be very grateful. Here's the scoop, and I apologoze ahead of time for being rather long-winded about it:

Brother GIVES me 2000 Outback wagon (92Kmiles) in October so that I may help Mom move from NY to Iowa. WOW, that is SOOO NICE, Steve! Thanks!! Except for a few minor funky details (which I can live with), the car seems to be really, really great, my idea of a dream ride. The CEL is always illuminated, but Steve says "No prob., it's always like that"...

Okay. I change the oil, get new tires, pack Mom, her boxes, and the dog and off we go, taking the beautiful back roads through Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. I notice during the drive that sometimes the engine lags a bit when changing from 1st gear to 2nd, but car's still new-ish to me so I don't know if it's a big deal or not.

Then, since arriving in Des Moines, 2 or 3 times the car has just "slipped" (?) from drive into neutral, and back into drive again.... Hmmm. It isn't really that weird until it does so on a slight hill and the car just starts rolling backwards. You can probably tell, I am NOT a car expert, (having only owned 2 used ones in my lifetime), but that's when I realize perhaps I'd better get this one to a mechanic.

A relative sends me to her "very reliable" garage. They check the transmission fluids and find them to be fresh and clean. They also discover the following by means of the computer diagnosis: PO 325, PO420, PO113

Jeff the mechanic says it could run me 900.00 to have thse things repaired, but I learn from your site that some of these codes might (?) be simply caused by me not screwing the gas cap on tightly enough (I did not get a manual with the car...), or, that they might indicate situations that are not too dire. Okay. anyway, for now, none of these problems get deeply investigated since we're focusing on the Transmission situation and the car is now sent on to a transmission specialist. His report is not encouraging: I "might" need a new "Low Gear Timing Solanoid" replacement - (is that what it's called?) to the tune of $1200.00. They aren't sure though, because they couldn't really look in depth...(?) "No, It might NOT be that, but something else with the transmission that could cost up to $3000.00" !!!! Jeff, my liason mechanic, the original guy who sent it to the tran.place for me, says now, "If I were you, I'd just trade this one in and get something else".

Oh. Wow. I'm shocked out of my mind, but maintain my composure. So, I pay the guys for their initial troubles and take the car away with me so I can use it over the long weekend and reflect upon its future.

I'm supposed to drive to Florida at the end of next week and have NO IDEA if I'm being led down the garden path here.Would it be worth it to (borrow the $ and) have it repaired? I really thought this would be a great car for few years... I got it for free, so if I needed to invest in some repairs, might I still be coming out ahead, as opposed to buying anouther used car? Do these proposed prices sound reasonable? If the car is such a loss, how could I trade it in? Thanks for any help anyone has to offer.

Reply to
Lotta Gale
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Well, if there is any alternate vehicle you can use for next week's trip,I'd use it or rent a car. Many people (not all) have had luck doing a sequence of fluid change/refills or 1 or 2 'power flushes' of the transmission - often with a few days of diving between to really get the gunk cleaned off the valve seats (which the solenoids control). Use of a 'Lubegard' or other additives has been helpful for some as well. I doubt you will have time for that routine before your trip. Often, shortcut or 'mechanic in a can'-type remedies are a waste and just delay the inevitible - but it seems that $200 could possibly save you the $1200. It's a risk you take with any used car. And at 92K you can expect some sensors, like the front O2 if original, could need replacing. In 13K more miles, you will need a timing belt change too. Do you know when the last sparkplug change occured? any other maintenance history? And I can't believe in would be worth much in a trade-in if the CEL is always illuminated. Another thing to definitely try, after comfirmoing all the tires are the same size/brand/wear - do some slow figure eigths and tight cicles in a parking lot. If you feel any jerkiness, that is torque bind, if it doesn't also go away after the xmission flushes - you will definitely benefit from a rebuilt transmission.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thank you Carl for taking time to advise me.

At this point I do NOT know much of the 'Ru's maintainance history, but will certainly try to question Steve about some of those details.

Meanwhile, Do you think the mechanic in question (or any mechanic) would be likely to help me with the power flush option you suggested or should I try it on my own?

Will try the figure 8s too. Yep, the tires are all equal, just put 'em > Lotta Gale wrote:

Reply to
Lotta Gale

Get a decent tire gage and be in the habit of checking your tires every so often. Can't tell you how many new tires I've had slow leaks in from the odd nail here and there, and you don't have to drive in the countryside to find them.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

Reply to
Pop-N-Fresh

I had the impression you were minimally experienced with automotive work. A series of 'drain and refills' is defintitely a DIY item. Get a chilton or haynes manual for the car. Avoid mistaking the front differential. You will only be able to drain 1/2 (I think - maybe less) of the fluid because so much stays in the torque converter housing. A true flush is gonna be more difficult and is likely best left to a good mechanic.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thank you Carl, you are very kind to respond. & Thank you to the others who have suggested

1) keeping close watch on the tire pressure and 2) the lube stuff in the wine bottle (!!).

I want to learn!

Um, yes,Carl...You are right.. I would definitely not be referred to as a DIY car owner. I've only owned 2 (used) cars in my life up 'til now, (one was a dream, the other a nightmare...), and both were looked after by commercial mechanics. So, a lot of what is being discussed and written about in this group is brand new to me. But I really wanna become more informed, so (at least) I can speak with some knowledge to a mechanic....

And, if it's possible to learn to do some of the simple straightforward stuff myself, I'm very willing.

Anyway, tomorrow I'm going to have another pow-wow with the mechanic and perhaps opt for the "flush" you mentioned, since I don't know if I'll have time to do the multiple 1/2 drains you suggest I try myself. (Need to leave by next Monday).

(Still waiting to hear from my brother about the maint. history of the 'Ru... hard boy to pin down.)

Thanks Carl. I will post any developments! LG

Carl 1 Lucky Texan wrote:

Reply to
Lotta Gale

Reply to
Lotta Gale

Reply to
Lotta Gale

Reply to
Pop-N-Fresh

The thing that struck me right away was what you paid for this car. If none of the other things pan out, paying $3k for this car is still a steal. On trade you can probably get $5-6k as-is and get a Honda or something, but the Outback is a lot cooler. :-)

just yakkin...

-John O

Reply to
JohnO

Doing a transmission power flush isn't a home garage option. It requires special (read expensive) equipment and training. Most shops set up to do this charge between $70 and $140. Surprisingly, the cheaper prices can be found at independent transmission shops.

Reply to
nobody >

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