I have a 2001 Forester and noticed that the front, passenger side, inboard CV joint boot is leaking. Grease from inside the boot has been flung onto the nearby exhaust components. The burning grease odor prompted me to investigate.
With my research so far, it seems replacement of the entire CV drive axle might be the way to go rather than trying to replace the boot with a 'clam shell' replacement boot. I've found a schematic of the CV axle and it appears the ends are splined onto the transmission stub and at the wheel hub. I'm looking for shop procedures for removal/replacement or first-hand experience. Can anybody help?
Unless there are a lot of miles on the car, or the axle is making noise, I'd be tempted to just replace the boot. Use an OEM boot rather than the "split" aftermarket item, they never seem to last. Probably a good idea to replace both boots while you're at it.
You will need:
1/2 inch impact wrench with 32mm (? whatever fits the axle nut), 19mm, and 14mm sockets, a 3/16 pin punch and hammer, a "hook" tool or a small standard screwdriver, a large pry bar, a medium-sized external snap-ring tool, new boots (or a new axle), and a buncha grease.
Put front end on jack stands, remove wheel, remove "Y" exhaust pipe (Necessary for access on R. side, unnecessary for L. side. Watch that you don't damage the O2 sensor wires), and drive the retaining pin from the axle. Use the impact to remove the axle nut, and the castle nut from the tie-rod end. Re-install the castle nut til the top of the nut is flush with the stud and give it a sharp wack with a hammer to loosen the end. Remove the tie-rod end. Remove the bolt that clamps the bottom of the hub to the lower ball joint, and use the pry bar to separate the hub from the ball joint.
At this point, you should be able to remove the axle easily by separating it from the transmission stub, and then sliding the outer end out of the hub. Reassembly is the reverse of the above. Note that the stub axle, and the DOJ housing have one side of the pin hole chamfered. Align these parts so that the chamfered sides are in the same orientation, and insert the pin from that side as well. Torque the axle nut to 125-150ftlb, and the remaining fasteners to a reasonable level. Re-do the "staking" on the axle nut (shoulder of nut driven into slot on axle).
Either install a new (reman) axle, or replace the boot(s). To replace a boot, you must disassemble the axle. Loosen the clamps on the inner joint (Double Offset Joint, DOJ), slide the boot back, and use the hook tool to remove the retaining ring just inside the lip of the DOJ. Slide the shaft with the "spider" assy. attached free of the DOJ housing. Remove the snap-ring holding the spider to the shaft, and remove the spider (note orientation). From here, boot replacement is pretty straight forward. pack the joint(s) with plenty of grease before re-assembly.
Hope this is helpful.
ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
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