2007 outback (2.5) oil filter removal

You should be able to remove it by hand. Use a pair of rubber washing up gloves for grip.

If you can't (ie: the service people have put the thing on too tight). stab it with a screwdriver and rotate.

Only do up the new one hand tight..

Hi,

Thanks for the suggestions ... but I tried using a rubber glove. It's on too tight (or I'm just not strong enough). I'd hate to stab it and find I still can't get it off because then I'd need to get it towed.

Also, when I put them on, I always only hand tighten them.

Thanks, Bob P.

I have done the 'stabbing' routine and it can be messy. Also, removing by hand sometimes requires applying force and waiting for the filter to move slowly at first. It can be difficult.

This thread may have some good ideas for you.

I use "strap style" filter wrenches, in two sizes to fit any filter.

If you install the wrench so the strap goes around the bottom (farthest from the open end of the filter) 1/2", or so, the sides of the filter won't flex and ruin the grip.

Any parts store should have a strap wrench for less than $10. Choose the smaller of the two most common sizes.

If his Outback is like my Forester, there is no room to get a strap wrench (at least the two I have) into the recess that houses the filter. The only wrench that will work is a hex cap wrench with a ratchet and extension.

I too went had the same problem when doing my first oil change. Bought a high quality after market filter and a wrench to fit it and found that the wrench would not fit the factory filter. The factory filter was installed to tightly to remove using a rubber grip glove or a lid remover. Had to go back and get another wrench. For my forester I bought a Plews lubrimatic cap style, 65-68 MM which will fit the OEM (68) and I believe all of the aftermarkets. $5.29 at O'Reilly's.

I got my information from the moderated forum specific the the Forester. There is also one for the outback. DAGS.

Frank

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:07:41 -0500, Frank Boettcher

A-ha! My Outback was an '01 with a 2.5L.

There's another type of wrench available that should work. It's got 3 prongs that each pivot to adjust to the size of the filter and loosens or tightens itslf as it's rotated. It attaches to a standard 3/8 drive socket. Mine's a KD, part #3288 and I've used it on many filters that were otherwise inaccessible. Beats the stabbing, especially if you can't get leverage after the stab..

I hope you got something more than the basic version of Fram filters, if not it is in no way equivalent to the Subaru OEM filter.

M.J.

My filter wrench uses a ratchet and tightens around the base of the filter when wrench is turned. Also, I've observed in loosening a house water filter and opening jars that sometimes elastomeric seals yield if you keep them under constant tension. Twist and hold under tension as long as you can and maybe you can even get it off by hand.

True, forgot to mention that one, but it was in the forum thread when I asked about what to use. Little more expensive as I recall, but with a greater range.

Frank

I've tried a lot but in the end found this type very effective on all size filters, in tight spaces, and at a good price.

Hi,

I've used Fram on all my cars for years (decades) and never had a problem. Perhaps you just got unlucky.

Bob P.

Nope.

Nope.

I am the type that has actually experienced a problem with a Fram filter. Used to put them on my old Hyundai figuring a filter is just that, a filter, until one day my car badly overheated soon after an oil change. The fresh clean oil became black immediately and I suspected it may be because of a bad filter. Upon inspection I found the paper element dislodged, and loose inside the filter case. The Hyundai didn't seem to suffer any permanent damage, but if it were a Subaru with a sensitive head gasket the cheap Fram might have cost me some serious money.

M.J.