94 Legacy, 2,2 Timing Belt Set Up

You need to consult the service manual which will show the position of the keyway for each cam at Top Dead Center. This assumes that you placed the crank at TDC and lined-up the timing marks before you took off the belt. It's always a good practice to do this and take pictures of it before you take it all apart as a sanity check later if you have a problem

Found a blurb warning to use the 'nothches' BUT not the 'arrows'.

also, there may be some good pics here;

Thanks for the reply info.

not sure which engine, but here's another link;

Also, try to triple check the number for crank pulley torque. Some older books/gudes have too low torque listed.(sry, I don't recall the torque required)

Also, some folks insist on changing the front crank seal and rebuilding the oil pump. Also, be VERY careful compressing the hydraulic tensioner. You can't go too slowly.

There are some helpful youtube videos on subaru timing belt changes. I used a few when I did my 2.5, and saw that there are some on the 2.2. On the 2.5 I had been using the wrong marks on the crank pulley and when I tried to turn it over by hand it didn't work. I was able to clear it up by looking at the videos and pausing at just the right moment. The 2.2 is less of a gamble since it is non-interference. The keyways should only fit into one spot on the pulley, ant the mark is on the pulley, So I'm not sure what keyway work you would have done that would mess up the ability of the marks to indicate correct alignment.

The next paragraph is from fuzzy memory. Don't take it for face value and assume it is wrong until you find proof otherwise:

I believe that the marks are circles on the outer rim of the pulley and the arrows that you speak of are on the spokes of the pulley. The circles are the timing marks for belt alignment, whereas the arrows are for finding TDC. Check that theory out before you use it.

A thing to note... If you turn it over by hand once you get it all together, that won't actually tell you if everyting is aligned properly since it is non-interference. It could still be off, but turn over fine by hand.But if you turn it, turn it by the crank, not the cam since turning it by the cam can cause the belt to slip since it puts tension on the wrong parts of the belt and prevents the tensioner from working properly, thus allowing the belt to get loose and slip teeth. This happened on my 2.5 and I thought that the tensioner was bad, so I put on a a new one. Then it did it again, and I thought the engine was screwed up. Then I figured it out, spun it with the crank, and all was good.