95 Impreza AT - flywheel clanking noise

It sounds like you are describing the torque converter. It will be bolted to the flywheel at several (usually 4 pair) places, and if there is a bolt missing it really needs to be replaced. If you can do that through the inspection hole, more power to you!

Sometimes the flywheel will lose teeth (lack of proper dental care? Where does the floss go, anyway?) and the starter will just spin. If that is the problem there, it should crank normally now that you have moved the flywheel. If the starter still makes a horrible metallic grating sound now that it has new teeth to engage, suspicion falls on the starter. Some people whack the starter with a hammer (no fooling!) to get it to work one more time... and once more... when what it really needs is a good cleanout and relubrication.

If the flywheel has lost teeth, the tranny will have to come off and the flywheel will need repair or replacement (depending on whether it is easier to get a whole flywheel from a wrecker or if the ring is available). The old ring is heat fitted and is removed with a few blows with a cold chisel between the teeth. The flywheel is laid flat on a workbench and the ring is heated with a torch. The ring is then dropped over the flywheel and voila! Unless the flywheel is actually one piece on that engine, of course.

Mike

Thanks, Mike. So the flywheel and the torque converter are both part of the transmission in this case? If I lift the engine out, I should have access to it on the transmission side, right? I am used to the flywheel being on the engine side so this is different, then? I think the water pump also is on its way out as it appears to be weeping. Will do that and the timing belt, etc as well.

:) Haven't seen any floss, but did find a bolt that fell out of the bottom (must belong to the torque converter). I also took the starter out. It looks normal and certainly seems to behave normally. There's a little hood on the starter. Is the gear on this starter supposed to retract all the way into the starter (in other words, not half way in the hood). I could take a pic to describe what I just babbled, if it isn't clear :) I think the bent up part of the torque converter is being banged against something making noise and possibly stopping the engine from turning properly. If the torque converter is toast as described, would that cause the crank to not turn?

I have a Chilton manual but that doesn't cover very much at all. Do you know of any sites or manuals that might be of use?

Thanks! Remco

Just making sure this is clear: when I look into the inspection hole, the mangled metal is on the engine side of the flywheel. That metal piece is the torque converter, then? Thanks! Remco

That thin mangled thing is the flexplate. From your description of the problem the TC, that much larger thing with the ring gear, is fine. The flexplate is junk and will need replaced. Either the engine or transaxle has to come out to replace the flexplate. Use Lock tite on all the bolts when you put it all back togather as it appears someone in the past didn't. Be forewarned that when reinstalling the transaxle it is very difficult to fully seat the TC. Don't get it fully engaged in the transmission and the internal oil pump will be broken. If the transmission and engine go togather with no gap then you are good to go. If there is an 1/4" gap between the bellhousing and engine then STOP. The TC isn't fully engaged inside the transmission. Don't think all I have to do is tighten the bellhousing bolts and it will pull itself togather.

Thanks, John. Looking at the motor manual I found on line (see other post), the flexplate makes sense. What is its function? So when putting it back together, one does not force it? I've put VW bug engines in - is it similar in the sense that you have to try and whiggle it back and forth? Or should it just slip right in when properly aligned?

A TC, any TC, cannot be bolted directly to an engine/crankshaft. The TC bolts to the flexplate and the flexplate bolts to the crankshaft. This is the only function of the flexplate. The TC fitment problem will become clear to you when you separate the engine and transmission. The input shaft is hollow and has a much smaller spined shaft. This "inner" splined shaft is what drives the oil pump. If you remove the transmission without the TC moving forward, you probably won't have a problem. If the TC slides forward or you remove it completely, that small splined shaft will usually come out of the transmission. What I have learned to do is to take a measurement before the engine and transmission are separated. just use the bellhousing as a reference point and note the distance between it and the undisturbed TC. The potential problem is only 1/4". If you discover the TC has moved forward about 1/4" this means that small splined shaft has not fully engaged whatever it engages inside the transmission Your only option is the twist and turn the TC until it slides backward that 1/4" . The important point is if the transmission and engine do not fully seat (no gap between the bellhousing and engine block) then do not tighten any of the bellhousing bolts.

Thanks, John. Sorry about asking the million questions but when I unbolt the engine from the transmission, do I also have to unbolt this flexplate from the TC going in through the inspection hole? (basically turn the crank, unbolt, etc until all four are out) Looking at the drawings, it looks like that's what I have to do. The TC ideally stays in the transmission, do I have that right?

That is correct. The flexplate will stay with the engine. Once the engine is out and separated from the transmission you will see the bolts that hold the flexplate to the crankshaft.

You stated in an earlier post the engine turns but the TC does not. It also sounds like 3 of the 4 TC/flexplate bolts are still there. This means the hub of the flexplate that bolts to the crankshaft has broken free of the flexplate.

Keep the posts coming. I'd like to know how much damage you find.

Thanks - that makes sense, looking at the drawing. I'll have to get my hands on an engine lift and will probably do the serious work next week (I'm off that week). Will post here as to what's going on.

I noticed in another of your posting that the engine in this car had been replaced. Dollars to doughnuts whoever did the work did not use the correct torque on the flexplate bolts. A dab of Locktite and the correct torque would have saved you a lot of work.

Yup - that had occurred to me as well. Firestone is really batting a thousand, right? :)