Acceptable drain plug washer

You want an annealed copper or soft aluminum washer.

I just went ahead and bought a box of 10ea. 20mm crush washers;

Thanks much. Amazon has everything, of course. If I can find a local supply for lesser quantity I might do that. At 195k miles now, not sure if I'll use 10 washers.

Aw c'mon, go for 300k!

Understood, I DO have 2 Soobs to maintain.

Local dealer or Jamie at

- maybe you need a coupla other parts and could get 2-3 washers thrown in with the order?

Anyway, I couldn't find any aftermarket washers that seemed to be the right size.

It's been so long since I had one of the crush washers, I need confirmation that I recall correctly: flat side against the plug?

Good question. I'm not sure it matters but, I put the 'flat' facing up/ out - so it's on the pan. No leaks so far.

Thanks/ FWIW I just remembered I had some info and found a note on my repair folder saying the opposite, which I recall came from this newsgroup in 1997. lol. Never leaked that way either.

Original install is flat to the plug.

What's the argument against cleaning the old parts and reassembling with black RTV, which is what I usually do?

If you're not leaking or clogging the oil pick up screen - no argument.

I was going to ask about that. The current install has a very slow leak (far less than 1 qt in 3k miles). I think it was a crush washer I was reusing. When I was tightening the plug I heard a crunch, like a grain of sand shattering (although I clean things well). I removed it and cleaned things again. Perhaps it was actually a tiny dent in the washer which I didn't notice - which sealant would have prevented from being a leak issue

This was the third oil change since (& including) the one where the problem developed. I looked closely and felt closely and it feels like there is a depression in the smooth surface of the oil pan that may reach the location of the gasket, or perhaps there is a tiny crack radiating from the drain hole but I can't see or feel it. I did use RTV sealant this time along the side where I can feel the depression a bit away from the hole, and am using new crush washers. It leaks worse it appears, but still I don't think I will be losing near a quart in 3k-4k before the next change.

But just curious...1) any other fixes possible or 2) what it would involve (for someone, not me) to replace the pan if no other fix is possible.

I buy them at my Subaru dealer. Cost probably a little above Amazon's.

Yes I can imagine perhaps the surface was not clean, although the leak appears to be on the higher side of the drain plug so nothing more should have dripped on it after I cleaned it with solvent.

As far as trying to smooth out the surface, it would probably help if I could get a better look to see exactly why it is leaking. Next time I change it I can jack it up high enough to get under there with the tire change jack, I hope.

The crush washers appear to be copper. I

I had thought about teflon tape but did not use it this time. Is it a potential issue if it gets in the oil. An O-ring was also a consideration. If it were a larger diameter than the crush washer and could go outside the crush washer (which is narrow and fits snug on the plug) perhaps that would be helpful.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will try some of them at the next change/

I think there is some small risk to the use of teflon tape. If a large piece were to get loose, it 'should' be stopped by the screen on the pickup I'd expect. And small pieces should get stopped by the filter. One reason I suggested trying to limit the tape to just a few threads toward the 'outside' (limiting the Teflon to a thickness equal to the pan, instead of the full length of the bolt/plug) - limit what could possibly get loose inside the pan. Keep in mind, any pieces that are cut by the threads but are in between them (the teflon actually making the 'seal'), would likely be flushed out after removal of the plug by draining oil.\\

Not the best way - but I wouldn't be too frightened of it. I think replacing the pan, or resurfacing the mating part of the drain hole are the 'best' fixes. I might also closely inspect, or just replace, the plug- perhaps it has a crack or imperfection?

Do NOT get under the car with it supported only by the jack. Use jack stands, a chunk of wood or a rock or anything strong enough to take the weight of the car.

David

This is certainly a bit of a mystery. I'm no expert, but it seems to me, as well, that the teflon tape is a bigger risk than the RTV.

What kind of "solvent" are you using? Did you try some kind of de- greaser such as MEK, which is usually available in the painting section of Home Depot. There should be no problem at all with RTV adhering to clean bare or painted metal. Give it one more try and make sure there's a continuous ring of RTV around both sides of the washer.

^^^^ THIS ^^^^

Particularly dangerous if you're going to be filing or doing any serious wrenching under your car. Your limbs or life are worth a lot more than the cost of a couple of jackstands from Walmart. Borrow them from a neighbor if you must.