avoiding power windows

How far back do I have to go to avoid power windows? I'm looking for something small with good gas mileage, like maybe a Legacy, but I will not tolerate power windows, power door locks, or an automatic transmission. I would like air conditioning.

I know all the power stuff is standard now, but when was it last optional?

Thanks,

Alan Corey

Reply to
alancorey
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Interesting question! I don't know the answer. It might be possible to refit an automatic window with a crank. I would do the driver's window and leave the others motorized. That's because you raise and lower the driver's window much more often than the others. At least I do. Therefore, the others are less likely to break down. And you'll enjoy the convenience of "remote control."

When you say good gas mileage, what is good for you? My 2000 Legacy L wagon gets only about 23.7 mpg (in the US). I guess that's excellent compared with an SUV, but it's not so great compared with other cars its size.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Reingold

Oh, you might find an answer by looking through reviews at

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I think they archive all of their reviews through the years.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Reingold

I haven't had manual crank windows since 1993, not by choice but simply by virtue of how the cars came equipped. Haven't missed the old hand cranks one bit. And there have been no power window problems of any kind, even on the Volvo. They just work. I'm working hard here to figure out why I'd want hand-crankers again, unless the argument is being able to open a window under water in some emergency situation. Then again, if the car had been damaged on the side, even hand-crankers may not work.

Reply to
Hal Whelply

In my experience, which is admittedly small, all of my cars with power windows had motors weaken or die on me. Repairs are usually around $400 each.

This is my first Subaru. Maybe I'll have better luck.

Reply to
Tom Reingold

Hi,

I'd consider you've been lucky. Most everybody I've known w/ power windows has had at least one break down if they've kept the vehicle any time--yes, I probably know a lot of cheapskates, cuz 10 yrs is quite common among most of my friends. Repairs are expensive, and often difficult or impossible to do at home. So far, on my Camry, approx $500 has been spent on keeping the windows going up and down, and the rears haven't "done their thing" yet. Considering the design, I expect they will, though.

OTOH (knocking on wood), I've NEVER had a manual mechanism give up, and when someone vandalized one car and broke out the driver's window, it was easy to fix myself. Personally, I'd rather have dropped that $500 into the gas tank of my wind-up windowed Subie and gone somewhere...

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

I saw on TV once (Discovery or something like that about "rescues") that quite often the window lowering circuit and motor will run even if the car has been completely filled with water.

If getting out of the car is the concern, taking sime duct tape and securing a window punch in the door pocket would work as a substitute. It also serves for getting OTHER car windows open fast if need be.

(A window punch is a nob on a metal stick with a pointy end. A firm push compresses a spring and releases it so a firm snap of force hits the punch. Its like hitting the window with a metal hammer. It won't work on a windscreen or back window, but can shatter safety glass in or out of water. A hammer might not be swing-able under water. Any hardware store should have one for less than $10)

Reply to
Sparky Polastri

aka spring-loaded center punch.

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-John O

Reply to
JohnO

...then I found this:

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-John O

Reply to
JohnO

"Sparky Polastri" wrote in news:42f10c95$1 snipped-for-privacy@newspeer2.tds.net:

Finally if you have power windows and now way to break the glass there is another option.

Here's how: Sitting and waiting as your car fills with water and sinks will be terrifying, but if the door is your only way out, you don't have any other choice. The door will only open when it's covered with water both inside and out and the pressure on both sides is equal. And there are a few other things to keep in mind: There's a good chance your car may flip upside-down as it sinks, so keep hold of something?the steering wheel, a door handle?so you can orient yourself when the car settles.

Reply to
Fuzzy Logic

Why? IMHO, in order to avoid a very slight chance of a power window problem, you're going to have to get such an old car that all kinds of other things will be falling apart. At least with the Outback, power window failure is pretty rare. There's a guy who runs a 96 OBW website with 180K on his one-owner car. He's cleaned the contacts on his power windows a couple of times, but otherwise has had 180K of trouble-free up and down.

Reply to
lkreh

My 1985 Subaru has never needed a power window repair. Then again, at 20 years and 200,000 miles it's just starting to get broken in.

Reply to
Guy Macon

small with good gas mileage, like maybe a Legacy, but I will not tolerate power windows, power door locks, or an automatic transmission. I would like air conditioning.

My other car is a '95 Geo. No power anything. I'll consider an offer!

Reply to
Paul Knudsen

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