Bike rack 2000 Legacy wagon

Model 2000 Legacy Wagon

Can anyone recommend a trunk - rear hatch - mounted rack that will allow the rear wiper to function with the rack attached? I have checked the Yakima and Thule web sites and nothing seems to meet my needs.

Thanks,

Harvey

Get the roof rack!! I have had all three types and the roof rack is by far the best. Here's why:

1. Bikes lock securely to rack makimg theft more difficlt.
2. Does not interfere with rear hatch
3. Does not sway and attaches to vehicle better than strapped on trunck racks.

I have both hitch mount and roof racks, and I have an opposite opinion entirely. Especially with 1 and 3.

Harder to get up there for one, and they're more secure and wind load the vehicle less on my Sportworks hitch rack vs my Yakima roof rack. It's more secure on my Sportworks rack too since I can use extremely secure cable locks --one from the rack to the car chassis, another through the bikes to the rack.

Interference with the hatch is an inconvenience, but the other options leave me putting on my hatch rack even if the roof rails are already up there. I only use the roof rails if I'm moving >2 bikes.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

Todd,

Thanks for the input - I will look into the hitch option.

Harvey

----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd H."

My 1UpUSA tilts down with bikes attached should I need to open the hatch on my WRX wagon. It's a work of art, but cost as much too! I think it's been replaced with a Raxter?

Carl

I sell a whole list of rack brands at a bicycle shop.

Usually left off of internet rack discussions is the bicycle type and the personal makeup of the person.

- Got an 17 or 18 pound road bike?

Those are easy to get on the roof, easy to remove the front wheel and securely lock in a fork mount, and something that grabs the frame might not be desirable, especially with custom paint or super light tubing. The lower profile of the handlebars in a fork mount will also cause less clearance issues with drive-thru's, parking structures, etc...

- Like to ride 45 pound hybrids or downhill or "all-mountain" bikes?

These are much more difficult to get up on top. Through axles are more of a pain to fit to fork mounts. Upright racks that allow the front wheel to stay on mean the handlebars are UP THERE, and may fit low hanging trees, drive-thru's etc... Mountain bikes can be wet, muddy, etc... after a good ride.

- Are you short or tall, big or small? A 6'2" 220 pound male can easily put a 35 pound all-mountain bike on top, even on an SUV, because he can probably stand on an open door, hold his body up with one hand and one-hand the bike onto the rack. A 5'3" woman will have a much more difficult time doing the same.

Also keep in mind the following:

- Hitch racks, while easily accessible to smaller people, are usually HEAVY! If you're planning on a small person installing and removing the rack, keep that in mind. Some "accessibility features" work better than others, some move with finger tips, some require serious strength to operate. TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, with and without bikes mounted. A smaller person (or a larger person with a "Pro-cyclist" upper body ) may have difficulty installing a hitch rack alone, as the mass may be difficult to manuever into the hitch receiver. Roof racks are always available for use, as they're usually left on the vehicle.

- ALL racks can be outfitted to a similar security level.

- ALL rack security systems are defeatable by someone who really wants you stuff.

- Empty racks, without locks, get stolen off cars at trail heads and parking lots.

- BMX and kids bikes add even more things to think about.

Good luck!

How many other bikes would you like to carry? If you're pretty sure you'll only carry one bike almost all of the time, the most basic Thule or Yakima will serve you well. The more expensive versions have better saddles to prevent bikes from swinging and banging together. The most expensive versions can carry 4 bikes in a very secure fashion.

Many hatch mounts WILL interfere with rear wipers. Most customers look at it from the standpoint that you probably won't be using the rack on days you'd need the wiper. Hatch mount racks are very easy to steal and the woven straps may not like continuous weather exposure, so you might not want to leave it on all the time. On the other hand, once a rack is configured for a specific vehicle, you probably may only need to adjust one strap to install or remove it.

Yakima and Thule both make excellent hatch racks at varying price points, depending on bike mounting pads, separation, etc... The rack that fits the most diverse vehicles, including lots of spoiler equipped sedans, should you buy one in the future, is very well made and rustproof, but more expensive than the others are the different versions of Saris Bones.

"Fit guides" can be found at Yakima.com and Thule.com to make sure a specific model will fit your specific car, as well as provide attachment details and wiper clearance notes.

If it's one bike all the time, your local bike shop may also have a generic, inexpensive version that'll work fine.

Barry,

Thanks for the input. I think I want a hatch mount rack for my 2000 Legacy Brighton Wagon. I have a Mongoose Crossway hybrd - weight 30 lbs??

I am looking for a relatively inexpensive solution. There is no roof rail on the car and I do not have a trailer hitch.

I am a 60+ male, 5ft 10in, 165 bs. realatively good condition, but no Arnie!

Preferably the hatch mount will allow the rear wiper to work.

Most of the time I will transport to a city park for cycling. Maybe the odd highway trip,

What suggestions would you have if I were to come in to your shop?

Thanks,

Harvey

If you are a casual rider the trunk rack is fine. If you are a serious cyclist you need the roof rack

I sell plenty of both racks to riders of all levels.

I rarely see $1500-$2000+ bikes on trunk racks. TrunkHitch racks damage paint. Most cyclists with good bikes use roof racks IME