My '03 Forester has 55k on the clock. It has not been abused.
I hear little highpitch noises; - they seem to be happening intermittently. I'm very hard of hearing, so I can't hear anything when I'm not driving. Any tire and brake places claim I'm due for both pads and rotors work (4W D/B).
My '84 Bimmer has a warning light for these problems, but how do I know on a Subaru?
What milage should I expect for pads, and what brands do you suggest. I've looked at Tire Rack... Still clueless ;(((
Well, when the brake fluid in the reservoir gets low enough the brake light on the dash should illuminate, provided, nobody (such as a quickie-lube shop) has topped 'er off for ya between pad changes. This is a quick way to look and 'guestimate' about how far through a set of pads you are, but there really is no substitute for getting down there and actually looking at the pads yourself to determine remaining material.
Years ago I suspected I needed the brakes and rotors replaced so I made an appointment and took my car into a reputable service chain in town here, ready to drop about $500 for the "works." An hour after I arrived and had been enjoying their waiting room, the car had been inspected and I was told nothing was wrong with the brakes and no service need be performed. I paid them to bleed the lines anyway. About a week later the screech indicator clued me in to needing the pads replaced.
Hmm...
While it's possible they simply checked one set of pads out of the four and found plenty of wear left on it, I'm skeptical. So, I always inspect front and rear independantly and if I suspect uneven wear, check both wheels on the front of the car.
Do you feel any pulsation or seemingly uneven movement when applying the brake pedal, roughness, or vibration in the steering wheel?
You hear intermittent high pitched noises?
Could be an object such as a rock stuck in a wheel or rotor somewhere? There is also a metal guard on the backside of the rotor that while unlikely, can sometimes bend and contact the rotor. Sounds like the screech pad when it does. May be intermittent when you load that wheel turning a corner. Or, could just be the screech pad on your brakes telling you it's time, or better yet, wheel bearings can cause a high-pitched screech when they are failing.
Anyone performed a panic stop recently that could have put a glaze on the rotor surfaces? That can give you a good squeak also.
Can't speak to the mileage you should get out of your pads. Really depends what you have on there and how you use them. Right now I'm using the aweful Autozone lifetime warranty pads which I'm pretty hard on, and they only seem to go about 3 months and 6,000 miles under severe service. (I'm sure I've offended somebody by using these on a Subie, even if only myself!)
~Brian
P.S. Pardon my spelling, I'm up past my bedtime! (-;
All the Subaru break pads I've seen have a little metal rubber on them. When a pad wears down enough, the metal starts to rub on the rotor and makes a squeaky type noise, such as metal rubbing on metal. That's likely what you are hearing, as when it first starts it can come and go. It's not really something you have to jump on right away. There is still plenty of pad left when this first occurs, but the squeak will drive you crazy eventually and you'll think your car is falling apart and fix the problem.
Yes, I had noticed the brake fluid was down, pretty clever, I must say.
I feel a pulsation on the brakes and stering wheel when I slow down to exit off the highway. It was making an intermittent high pitched noise, but it is less intermittent now.
I tried to brake with the hand brake, no pulsation then. The right front wheel was/is the first sweeky wheel. It also makes a screech in a left hand turn... but I don't understand the relationship if I don't brake...
And, yes, the squeak drives me crazy when the windows are rolled down.
I think I'll buy the ATE pads and the Rembo rotors from the TireRack. I figure if I keep the car for an other 55k, I'll have to replace the rotors anyway, so it will be cheeper to get it all done now...
Any comments on my thought, and choice of the brands of the pads and rotors?
I recently bought Brembo rotors and Akebono ProAct Ceramic pads from Tirerack. I am very, very pleased.
First several weeks were a disappointment, for I couldn't feel the difference from OEM. After that something changed and - wow - great braking! Way better than it ever was with OEM.
What I've been told, for the first while you run new pads there are solvents that are still evaporating. Get your brakes warm enough and you can smell them too. From my experience the cheaper the pad the longer the 'break in' period but I've never run anything costing over $55, so I'm hardly able to speak toward the break in for something of a premium set. Also, I've read somewhere but can't remember where, there are some pads you can purchase that have been specially baked to remove the solvents before you even use them so you don't get the initial squishy feeling. (-;
With your input and what is available for the Forester, I'm inclined to go for the #2 (Hawk) brake pads, and #1 rotor sets (Bremco) in the order they are listed under Pads and Rotors.
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I cannot find the rear brake pads for the Hawk... Why??? I have noticed that people will invariable use the words disk and rotor???
I'm really not sure if this is a sensible choice...
Hoping your input will help me along (-; They are getting BAD.
Audible indicators on the pads that make the noise you describe, and a visual inspection. When you go to the brake place ask them to show you the pads. You'll see how little it left on them.
For brake pads, my experience has been that screwing around with aftermarket isn't worth it. For whatever reasons unless you go with premium ceramic pads and matching brand rotors, you end up with problems. You dont' really save any money vs Subaru OEM pads/rotors given how the aftermarket ones tend to wear and how much premium aftermarket stuff costs.
After 14 years of OEM, I put Brembo rotors ($36 each) and Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads ($52 front axle) this summer.
The combination is great! Much better braking and *totally* silent (unlike dealer-installed OEM previously).
That's $124 total. For comparison, OEM parts from the cheapest source I found (
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) was $161 - almost
30% more expensive. Considering that the combination works very well and the rotors are "premium" and the pads are likely to last much longer than OEM (ceramics vs semi-metallic OEM), I'd say OEM all the way is not necessarily a best solution.
I had a problem that sounds the same as yours. I had it for years and thought I needed a complete overhaul of mhy brakes.
But, when I bought a new set of wheels just for winter use (so I could change over myself), the problem went away! It turns out that uneven torque on the lug nuts was distorting the rotors on one wheel. When I did the changeover myself, I was careful to use a torque wrench on the lug nuts, and bingo! My brakes were cured.
Can't say about the Forester, but my wife's 2005 Outback just had the front pads replaced today under warranty at 18k. The rears on my 2004 WRX went at about 32k, but I didn't even think to go warranty since it seemed like a normal lifespan, although having the rears wear out when the front pads were fine seemed odd. Was in a time warp between having the local dealer where I bought the car having closed their Subaru shop and a new one, actually much closer to home hadn't opened yet. Now I've goit to watch my front pads and her rears. Had the Outback in for a headlight replacement, under warranty, when they called to tell me they were doing the brakes. Anyone know of a service bulletin that may have caused them to look for the premature wear?
We had a similar situation on our 2003 Legacy Wagon, at 28.5k we were in for service and they said the front brakes needed replacement, no problem though they were under the 30k warranty. We asked about the rear and they said no they were OK. Well, at 30,100k the rear cherpers started, time for a brake job? We returned to the dealer and they replaced them since we were so close to the warranty. Yes! Now with about 76k on it it is time for brakes again. Now the first set lasted
+-30k, the second set (by dealer) lasted 45~47k. If I were to guess I would say they can't be the same pads as the original equipment.
Now I am shopping for pads and rotors. Choices, choices.
Yeh... I was tempted to go for more reasonable priced ones, but it looks like the OEM is going to be the ones, at 55k I guess I am not doing too bad... $510 just for the parts seems a bit steep.
I'm wondering how much alike the brakes on the the regular WRX and the Forester, the latter being a "crossover", as they call it?
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