Buying Used Outback - Advice appreciated

Reply to
bigjim
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Used cars can be very good or very bad buys. Of course it all depends on condition, mileage and price. You are correct that $4k less is not a good deal for a several years old car.

Of course for those with lots of money a new car is best, but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car.

Reply to
Spam Hater

but don't forget that the early bugs are usually out of a used car.

Reply to
bigjim

I have an entirely different approach: I prefer cars with 100K miles or more, or at least 80K. At 50K it is hard to tell how the car has been treated and how it will hold up; at 100K it is hard to hide.

My strategy is based on being a hard-core DIYer. I assume I will have to replace a timing belt right off the bat, and probably drive axles soon afterward. Manual trannies may need a clutch, any car may need considerable brake work. As long as there is no trace of rust in the radiator (I violated that rule once and paid the considerable price!) and no sludge, little varnish visible through the oil filler cap I make out very well. The price is typically at least $10K less than new, even after buying new parts for the usual, and many expensive parts are available from wrecking yards.

I have had mixed results with new car warranties for the three new cars I've had in my life. Our Toyota has been well covered and reliable, but I had to wrangle several times with our '84 Dodge. My daughter in law has paid more in uncovered repairs on her Kia than she has paid on the car loan.

I thought I could hang up my tools when we bought the '84 Dodge brand new. Ha! When it failed emissions testing in its fourth year I took it to the dealer, who kept it for a day and pronounced the carburetor bad: replacement $660 US. I declined and took the car back home, troubleshooting and fixing it myself by replacing the fuel pump for $20 US. BTW, that misbegotten vehicle never made it to 100K miles. The timing chain wore so much it was striking the cover and the first step in replacement was "remove engine from car." No mo Mopar for me!

Still, used cars are usually just good choices for DIYers. If I had to take any of these cars to a mechanic for the fixing up they wouldn't be good deals at all. For somebody dependent on outside service, I recommend a car with a good pedigree and a dealer with a reputation for customer service.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee
84 was a BAD year for Dodge. By 86 they were much better-
Reply to
bigjim

Holy cow, this question generated a lot of responses, and I appreciate the input. I held off on the 2001 OBW w/ 77k miles, and found a 2001 LL Bean with 50k miles for 12,500. The vehicle is in excellent shape, complete maint. records, new rubber (Michelins), everything is great. I wasn't really looking for a Bean but this seemed like a good deal and I'm pleased with it. The only thing more I'd like is a 5 speed with the H6; wish Subaru offered that.

Reply to
Dan

On 2006-02-19, snipped-for-privacy@backpacker.com penned:

Minor, maybe, but ...

I have an almost two year old WRX. It has lots and lots of dash rattles and miscellaneous interior noises. Minor, right? But extremely annoying. My car has spent a ton of time in the shop while they very slowly work at finding the root cause of all these noises. That's time when I'm not driving the car, but someone else is.

Also, not everyone drives a car for 4 or 5 years past payoff. I tend to get a wandering eye after 2-3 years, while I'm still making payments. Of course I know that it's financially more sensible to keep the car, but that doesn't seem to help matters. I just start wanting something different. I thought the WRX would be the car I'd keep forever, but now the Outback is looking pretty good ... Anyway, if you're not going to keep the car well past the pay schedule, used (or lease) looks pretty good.

Reply to
Monique Y. Mudama

Buy from a dealer that gives loaners!!!! Leasing is for suckers- once youre hooked you NEVER own anything. I already stated how I feel about used cars--I wouldnt even consider it. At least for $10k +. New is always a better bet.

Reply to
bigjim

On 2006-02-21, snipped-for-privacy@backpacker.com penned:

What does this have to do with anything? And yes, I had a loaner. It's still not my car, and still an inconvenience.

What's your point? If you like newer cars and tend to swap them every

2-3 years, how does "owning" matter? And in any case, you don't truly own a car for the first few years; the bank does. All you have is liability.

You've explained in great and exhausting, possibly even accurate, detail why new is better *for you*. Oddly enough, people who are not you and don't share your preferences and habits might come to a different conclusion about their own needs.

Reply to
Monique Y. Mudama

Yep, new is often (but not ALWAYS - very few absolutes in life) better, especially if: 1) you have the money for a sizeable downpayment, or, 2) do not mind a large monthly payment if you have little money for a down payment, and 3) you have sufficient consistent income to make those payments. Not everyone fits into that profile.

Reply to
Dan

Many leases advertised require $3000 or so down. That money is gone when lease is up. Interest rates are cheaper on new cars as well. Buying a used car for $16k requires a ecent down payment as well. If someone has $16k cash to buy a used car they would be smarter to spend $4k more and get a new car. The key is good bargaining skills. I have no trouble getting $25-26k stickered cars for $19-20k. Brand New,

Reply to
bigjim

On 2006-02-21, snipped-for-privacy@backpacker.com penned:

Why do you say that? I belong to a credit union and can easily get a used vehicle loan with no money down and a good rate.

Reply to
Monique Y. Mudama

used vehicle loan with no money down and a good rate.

Reply to
bigjim

On 2006-02-21, snipped-for-privacy@backpacker.com penned:

Yes, the proper response when you've been caught blabbering bulls**t is to change the subject. Good job!

An extra $30/month over 5 years is $1800. Sure, you can factor in a difference in interest rate if you'd like, something like 2% if you shop around ... even if you do, you're probably not going to get the same car, new, for $30 a month.

I have little trouble believing that you were a prototypical used car salesman, just based on the manure you're spreading around.

Anyway, I'm done here.

Reply to
Monique Y. Mudama

salesman, just based on the manure you're spreading around.

Reply to
bigjim

So I'm just wondering who spent 16k? Not me.

Reply to
Dan

So you expect someone to pony up the extra 4K just to loose that 4K in depreciation, the moment they drive out the door. But, you don't give a sh*t 'cause you've made a sale.

One word....predator

Reply to
Bugalugs

Who cares about depreciation if you keep the car after payments are done? The best was when a couple strippers came in and had a trade in they owned money on. One bought a geo tracker and ended up paying $22k for it!!!!!!! They were crushed

Reply to
bigjim

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