Check engine light 1998 legacy brighton (need new plugs/wires/distr. rotor and cap?)

Hi Folks,

Thanks in advance for any help with this. Friday I drove my car car to a train parking lot to leave if for the weekend. When I started it up, it ran a higher rpm range than I have noticed it doing before but then backed off. I figured that it must just be some sort of warming up thing, I live in SF, so I ignored it. Sunday night, when I picked it up from the lot, it did the high reving thing again, but then also ran really roughly once it backed down, the check engine light didn't go off, and it felt really under powered, like it was only running on 3 cylinders (which would fit with the rough running). This morning when I got into it, it did the same high rpm start, but when it backed down, it ran smoothly and was not under powered; however, the check engine light did stay on. I am thinking, possibly, that it needs new plugs, wires and distributer rotor and cap. Not really sure though. Thoughts?

Cheers,

Stu

Reply to
stugross
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You need to get the code read which will point you toward the source of the problem, before you go ahead and blindly start replacing parts. Autozone will scan it for free in most states, they may not do this in CA but you can try. They might just let you borrow the scanner and do it yourself. Alternately you can have a local shop pull the code for you although they will probably charge you for the diagnostic time. If it does come down to that you might as well buy a cheap code reader and do it yourself, and then you will have it for the future as well.

Reply to
mulder

You might want to look for a cracked or broken vacuum hose. Air leaking in can cause speed idle speed to increase and/or make the engine run rough. You should also pull the CEL codes per another response.

Ed P

Reply to
Ed P

Reply to
stugross

Little follow-up if i may: now the check engine light is not coming on at all and it is running fine. Two questions: 1) does this fact lead anyone to any off the top of the head diagnosises? and will a code reader still give me any information if the check engine light is not coming on at the time the read is taken?

Cheers,

Stu snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
stugross

Speaking in general (not specifically Subaru) about CEL problems, if the light is not coming on and the car runs OK, you can probably conclude that whatever was bothering the commuter cleared up on its own. The light comes on when conditions meet criteria that the computer is programmed to view as a problem. If the problem conditions go away, the light stays OFF, but depending on the nature of the fault, the computer may retain fault codes in memory -- at least for a period of time or number of ignition ON/OFF cycles. If it is convenient, and especially if you can find someone like Autozone to do it for free, get the system checked for stored codes and post the results here for comment.

As a case in point of my previous suggestion to check for vacuum leaks, on my '96 Outback it is all too easy when changing the air filter to dislodge a hose at the back of the housing. Air leaks cause the engine to idle faster as the computer just puts in more fuel to compensate, but a vacuum leak may affect some cylinders more than others and thus cause the engine to run poorly. Thus, in situations such as yours, it never hurts to look under the hood for loose or cracked hoses.

Ed P

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Reply to
Ed P

Reply to
stugross

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