Comparing tires for purchase

I just picked up a used 2005 Forester XS. It currently has the stock Yoko Geolandars on it which I dislike, so I'm shopping for new tires.

I currently have narrowed down the choices to four. Two are considered "Grand Touring All-Season", one is considered "High Performance All- Season" and one is considered "Ultra-High Performance All-Season".

My question is can I accurately compare these four tires against each other regardless of their category? Or does the category denote certain characteristics that are not obvious from the specs?

As an example, would a "Grand Touring" V-rated tire have a softer sidewall than a "High Performance" V-rated tire?

Thanks, Dee

Reply to
Dee
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It's probably more useful to disclose which 4 tires you're comparing rather than rely on any tirerack or marketing classes as any reliable guide of what you'll experience when you buy one.

That said, Ihave come to have a more important metric than these when choosing tires:

Will the son of a bitch stay round until it's tread is worn out?

I've had Firestone, Dunlop and Kumho on my OBW, and most recently a Michelin. The Michelin is still round after 25000 miles. Dunlop and Kumho went out of round such that despite regular balancing, rotation and inflation, you couldn't achieve a smooth ride. The OEM Firestone stayed round but was god awful in the rain and got replaced early due to that. The Michelin's are the first tires I've had in a long time that seem to ahve a shot at going the distance. I got them at Wal Mart of all places and actually had a really good experience there.

If shopping at tirerack.com, be mindful of the potential cost of lifetime balance/rotation on the tires. I did the Kumho's through tirerack, installed by a local installation affiliate of theirs, and wished I'd have bargained wtih the local tire store to match their prices instead (which one place said they would actually). The tirerack purchase ended up costing me more in terms of total cost of ownership if you figured in that I had to pay for every rotate and balance with the installer that was near me. Some tirerack installer affiliates offer lifetime balance/rotation for a reasonable adder though, so don't forget to ask about that. More recently I did a winter wheel package for another vehicle through tirerack and was thrilled with that, though. They arrived mounted and balanced on new wheels ready to just slap onto the car.

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

The Grand Touring vs HP vs UHP designation is part sales hype, and part tread design and rubber compound considerations.

Generically, a "performance" tire will be optimized for enhanced grip on dry pavement at the expense of rain/snow traction and tread life, but this is a pretty broad generalization.

Probably your best bet will be to visit the TireRack web site

and look thru the "tech center" and "tire decision guide" sections under their "shopping tools" tab, and then have a careful look at the specification and owner reviews of tires of interest.

And kudos to the good folk at TireRack for providing these tools.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

It would also help if you let us know what general area you live in and how you drive the car. There may be folks here that live in similar conditions and can vouch for certain tires.

Also, while I have had very good luck with my Kumho ECSTA ASXes, the Solus on my wife's car are not great/not terrible.

And plus 1 for getting Discount Tire to 'match the Rack'. They did that for me once.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

The V rating is the speed rating. There are also treadwear and UTQG Traction values. These are the values you would be interested in. The UTQG Wear number is 140 or higher. The higher the number, the harder the compound and the longer the tire will last. If they are V rated, the sidewalls are likely to be stiff. For an XS, I would go for H or S-rated if you want a comfy ride at the price of handling.

Reply to
JD

I *used* to drive at speeds that needed V-rated tires. Between gas prices and speeding tickets, I don't do dat no mo.

Take a look at the following and think of how you *really* drive.

The letter ratings are for 'continuous speed', not for short bursts for passing.

From

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Beginning in 1991, the speed symbol denoting a fixed maximum speed capability of new tires must be shown only in the speed rating portion of the tire's service description, such as 225/50R16 89S. The most common tire speed rating symbols, maximum speeds and typical applications are shown below: L 75 mph 120 km/h Off-Road & Light Truck Tires M 81 mph 130 km/h N 87 mph 140km/h Temporary Spare Tires P 93 mph 150 km/h Q 99 mph 160 km/h Studless & Studdable Winter Tires R 106 mph 170 km/h H.D. Light Truck Tires S 112 mph 180 km/h Family Sedans & Vans T 118 mph 190 km/h Family Sedans & Vans U 124 mph 200 km/h H 130 mph 210 km/h Sport Sedans & Coupes V 149 mph 240 km/h Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars

When Z-speed rated tires were first introduced, they were thought to reflect the highest tire speed rating that would ever be required, in excess of 240 km/h or 149 mph. While Z-speed rated tires are capable of speeds in excess of 149 mph, how far above 149 mph was not identified. That ultimately caused the automotive industry to add W- and Y-speed ratings to identify the tires that meet the needs of new vehicles that have extremely high top-speed capabilities. W 168 mph 270 km/h Exotic Sports Cars Y 186 mph 300 km/h Exotic Sports Cars

While a Z-speed rating still often appears in the tire size designation of these tires, such as 225/50ZR16 91W, the Z in the size signifies a maximum speed capability in excess of 149 mph, 240 km/h; the W in the service description indicates the tire's 168 mph, 270 km/h maximum spee

Reply to
nobody >

Thanks for all the replies.

Currently I am leaning towards the Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S. It seems to have a good combination of wet, dry, and snow performance characteristics.

My question about speed rating and sidewall stiffness was because I would like to stiffen up the way the car handles. I really dislike body roll. I guess I should mention here that my other car is an STI and I adore the way it handles. I did take the stock RE070s off the STI (they were just too harsh and punishing) and put on Bridgestone RE960AS, which are nicer to live with on a daily basis and give up just a little performance (I do not track or autocross).

Anyway, I figured I would start with a stiffer tire and see what that does to the Forry, and then maybe consider hardware changes. I know a lot of different parts can be changed/added. I don't want to turn the Forry into an STI, just make it handle a bit better. My mechanic suggested coilovers. I read about putting on WRX or STI springs, and a rear sway bar sounds interesting, but I really have no idea how exactly each of these parts will affect the handling and feel of the car.

Any input or suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks, Dee

Reply to
Dee

Yeah, I think coilovers (but wait on the antisaway) or maybe SPT pinks;

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could be a way to go. Lower stance, less dive and squat. I have SPT pinks on my 06 WRX and like them a lot. They are on stock struts and work fine. They lower slightly so the roll center/w'ever is messed up like some parts that 'slam' the car. Plus they didn't void the warranty.

After you get the springs/coilovers, then you can decide about the anti-sway. take a look at Kumho ECSTA ASX. They will even work in very light snow.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Yeah, I think coilovers (but wait on the antisaway) or maybe SPT pinks;

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could be a way to go. Lower stance, less dive and squat. I have SPT pinks on my 06 WRX and like them a lot. They are on stock struts and work fine. They lower slightly so the roll center/w'ever isn't messed up like some parts that 'slam' the car. Plus they didn't void the warranty.

After you get the springs/coilovers, then you can decide about the anti-sway. take a look at Kumho ECSTA ASX. They will even work in very light snow.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

The tires will have no effect on body roll. If the sidewalls are soft, you'd get a slushy effect during hard cornering. If you want to fix up the handling, I would go for a larger wheel size with a lower profile tire. If it is body roll or stiffening you want, that is a suspension issue; coilovers are a good choice, as is a larger sway bar. Once you have done that, I would go for a relatively soft compound (around 200 or so will give you reasonable wear) and stay away from all-season tires; you'll never get good handling from all-seasons.

Reply to
JD

Get the Cooper CS4's . I've tried the chinee made kumho and they were awful. The OEM Bridgestones were great for 15k-20k miles then got scary in wet and snow. I have an OBW BTW

Reply to
Big Jim

I'd agree with that characterization of the OEM Bridgestone. Well put.

The Kumho Ecsta something or other that was the low cost darling of tire rack at the time was great for about 10k miles, and soon went out of round on me.

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

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