Thanks for all the good advice on replacing my bad CV joint. I have called the local parts stores and found one for as low as $56.99. I did not ask if they were factory rebuilt or aftermarket but will. Here is my net two questions...
I have a Haynes manual and basic mechanical ability. The manual says that the steering knuckle is pressed onto the axle and will need to be removed by someone with a special tool. My cousin who is has worked in a transmission shop says back off the nut on the end of the axle until the threads are protected and carefully knock it out with a hammer. Do any of you have experience here and willing to make a recommendation?
I inspected the other CV boot and it is still intact but is starting to show some cracks. Any ideas on prolonging the life of the boot and should I bother replacing the boot on a good CV joint or just put two new axles in?
The reason why I am screwing with it is because I am one of the many who find themselves unemployed right now and have the time but not the money...
I've done things like that, I back it off a turn or 2 then give it a whack then a couple more turns and hit it again. It you back it off too far on the first whack you can still damaged the threads. You want as many threads as possible transferring the impact.
Use a brass hammer if you can lay your hands on one and be prepared to replace the nut. About half the time the nut is damaged beyond the point where a socket will go back on.
It's been a little while since I've done one (oin my own vehicles, I just replace the axle, an recommend others do as well) but I think to properly (no worthless split-boots) replace the outer boot, you have to remove the inner joint, so replace that boot as well, if you're going that route. Personally, I don't think boots are worth the extra time it takes to do them, and I spend the little bit of extra money and go with a lifetime warrented axle shaft.
On 3 Sep 2003 16:48:52 GMT, "Robin Henderson" wrote:
Don't get enthusiastic with that hammer, or you'll be replacing the wheel bearings too; a large gear puller will get it out if it's gonna come out. If not you will almost certainly be better off to remove the offending assembly and get a used hub from a junkyard. Do both boots; no good reason not to once you've gotten that far. I'm a lazy cuss, and so this is text borrowed from a couple earlier posts on the subject, hope it's helpful.
********************************** If all you want to do is replace the boots, you do not need to remove the axle. Put the front end up on jackstands (as high as possible) and remove the wheel. Remove the roll pin holding the axle to the stub shaft on the tranny. Separate the hub from the lower ball joint by removing the pinch bolt, spreading the socket a bit, and prying with a large pry-bar. Separate the tie rod end from the hub by loosening the nut and giving a sharp rap with a hammer. Pull the hub away from the tranny to separate the axle from the stub shaft. Remove the clamps from the inner boot, and slide it back from the joint. Using a small screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from the inside of the outer housing of the joint, (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get that far) and slide the shell off of the bearing "spider". Remove the snap ring holding the spider to the axle shaft, and remove the spider. You can now replace the boots. Clean everything, and pack in as much fresh grease as you have patience for. Reassembly is the reverse. Should you want to pull the axle, before you do any of the above, relieve the nut staking, and remove the axle nut. Thread lug nuts on a couple adjacent lugs and use your pry-bar with one end wedged between the lug nuts and the other end braced against the floor to hold the axle still, and an appropriate socket (30mm ?) on a large breaker bar with a piece of pipe for an extension to accomplish this. On older Soobies there is a split conical washer to provide additional challenges. Be warned; removal of the axle from the hub/bearings can be very difficult to nearly impossible if there is significant rust and/or corrosion present, and you mite find yourself reworking the whole hub. After you separate the axle from the tranny as per the procedure above, you will be able to slide the axle inwards and out of the hub and bearings. Maybe. In all likelihood, you will need to use a large gear puller. Newer cars have the shaft splines arranged differently, which allows you to place the puller jaws on the brake rotor and push the axle without loading the bearings. Older cars will require that you remove the brake caliper and rotor, and put the jaws on the hub. This results in side loading the bearings when you attempt to push. Gentle pressure is acceptable here, but resist the temptation to exert significant force or hammer on the axle end unless you want to replace the bearings as well. If gentle persuasion fails, resign yourself to rebuilding the hub. Disconnect the hub from the bottom of the strut, and toss the whole assembly up on your workbench to make life with the puller a little easier. If the hub/axle spline area has significant rust/corrosion you will probably save yourself a good deal of effort and frustration by making a trip to your friendly neighborhood junkyard for a complete assembly; I have seen them absolutely refuse to come apart due to corrosion, and have mangled pullers, knuckles, temper, and any chances of passing thru the Pearly Gates while trying ;-)
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ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
I have done this several times on two Legacys. I assume that it is the same. It is very easy. I just used a crow bar to pry the steering knuckle off. The only problem that I had on one, was getting the axle out of the hub. I pounded with a hammer and it would not come lose until a heated it it with a torch. The others all came out easy. The aftermarket axles have not lasted very long. I only got 25K to 30K miles before the boots ripped again. The axles are lifetime warranty and once you have done it the job takes only about
30 minutes so I will just keep getting free axles. Mine came with new nuts. These last ones have actually gone over 30K miles. One is clicking but the boot is still ok so I am waiting.
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