I have all the bolts out...
the case is coming open, stops at about 1"....
Is there a trick to get these things open?
Rich
I have all the bolts out...
the case is coming open, stops at about 1"....
Is there a trick to get these things open?
Rich
Don't know for sure if this applies to the EA 81 but you first have to remove the pistons to split an EA 82 case.
OK this must be the problem I'm having....
How to remove pistons?
Rich
There are wrist pin removal ports on the cylinder 'sides' IIRC.
You might ask/search at
that's all I've got-sorry
Carl
ughhh... I was hoping this wasn't the answer.. I saw the ports and thought to myself "you could get to the wrist pins from there"... this is gonna be a pain to get back together.
Rich
It can be a challenge. Once the circlip per piston is removed, you still have to pull the wrist pin. Get a long carriage bolt and grind most of the head off, leaving something that looks like a hook. Works like a champ removing the pins.
anyone have a PDF EA81 manual?
looking for torque specs.
Rich
john> It can be a challenge. Once the circlip per piston is removed, you still
I got the wrist pins removed from the front of the engine...
now for unscrewing the access ports... Those suckers are TIGHT
Rich
john> It can be a challenge. Once the circlip per piston is removed, you still
Got a 14mm allen wrench, unscrewed the access port plugs...
I made a remover tool, but the pins won't come out.. Maybe "varnish" is stopping them. I'll spray with some cleaner and report back if it helps.
Rich
They can be a real bear. I see you are struggling with the wrist pins . . . try making a tool to fit the end of a slide hammer by grinding down a bolt head such that you can slide it thru the wrist pin and then catch the far side. If you have to exert more than moderate force (_should_ come out with only gentle taps with the slide), you are probably going to damage the piston/wrist pin/rod/cylinder/???.
I haven't had much success rebuilding these engines; once they have accumulated enough time to _need_ the rebuild, the cam bearing surfaces and lifters are usually shot as well. (Plus you can't get the damned things apart as you have noticed.) I'd suggest trying to find a serviceable used motor; perhaps even buy a complete car to get one, as the costs will be pretty similar. The ones with hydraulic lifters (sticker on the valve cover sez "Do Not Adjust" or somesuch) are probably more desirable, but really _any_ EA81 will work; you may have to swap intake manifolds, and possibly the "Y" pipe as some have different exhaust port hardware. Run a quick compression check before you drag one home; 120 is good, 140 is great, 90-100 isn't. Absolutely the best way to go is to convert to the 4WD configuration; this engine setup doesn't use the POS O2 sensor/electronic carb as found in many early-mid 80's cars. I have the factory manuals for at least some of these years. Don't hesitate to contact me directly if you need info; always happy to help keep the old DL/GLs rolling along :-)
ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101
I got the engine open, replaced rings, main bearings, rod bearings,
On hand turning the reassembled engine, I get bad knock from front (flywheel) side of engine, and very low compression..
I took left head off, noise is reduced...
what are the specs for valve adjustment? I pulled the valves for one cylinder, and everything still looks fine.. valves are seating correctly...
camshaft was correctly aligned to crank.
Rich
The cam followers were making most of the noise, I removed the pushrods and turned the engine... there is still a small knock.
Rich
replying to S, Samuel wrote: His Steve, I am relatively new to these ea81 motors and having tremendous troubles getting this wrist pin out! Any tips on tool to use or a phot of what to make would help a lot. Thanks
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.