Electrical problems w/Outback Part 2

Sounds to me like the alarm unit's "brain" is fried. Specifically, whatever sends the control signal to the door lock actuators and lights. If you can locate that unit, and if it's available as a separately replaceable component, do that.

My experience is that auto techs aren't terribly skilled or proficient at debugging body electrical items (their forte is with things mechanical), and even if you had a fast efficient one, the shop would still probably charge you whatever the book estimate of hours was on the job.

If you don't already own a service manual for your vehicle, this might be an excellent opportunity to buy one to see how that electrical item fits in with the larger system.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

Maybe you have a relay sticking closed. Check to see if there is a relay that controls the door locks. Change it or clean it and see if that works.

It's certain is a possibility. I considered that..but given that both the doorlocks and light flashers are acting goofy, it suggests something upstream of the light relay, hence my suggestion to the original poster to try swapping out the alarm/keyless brain. Of course, cleaning relays or replacing them is cheaper.

On some keyless entry units/alarms, the relatively low current of the door lock actuators is handled directly by the alarm head unit itself, while an external relay is required for the parking light flashing. Some units, however use separate relays -- one for locks, one for lights.

In either case, the alarm/keyless head unit is a more probable cause, IMO, than the simultaneous failure of two relays. Caveat: my justification falls to shit if by chance this system somehow uses one relay to handle both the locks and lights.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

I had the same problem. Took my car to a couple of local places (not dealers) and they had no clue how to fix it. Took it to the dealer and they just changed the malfunctioning electronics box. The dealer charged a fortune though, partly because they claimed it took them several hours to track down the problem. (To me it seems it really should take more like a couple of minutes!). If you can get the box yourself and figure out how to take out the old one and install the new box it would likely be a lot cheaper!

Hi, Why bother with dealer's unit? They're not made by Subaru anyhow. I just install after market electronics gadgets myself. Never had problem. Since I installed it, I can fix it as well knowing what is going on. It could be poor wiring connection somewhere(ground maybe) or the brain itself as already mentioned. Or relay sticking. Tony

They're worth investigating for the convenience of plug compatibility and matching physical size, plus the reliability afforded by one's not needing to hack into any wiring harnesses.

True, but appreciate that there are folks who don't have time, desire, or inclination to be figuring our wiring harness color codes and risking further damage to their vehicles, and whose time they decide is worth the extra $$ for the Subaru OEM'd brain.

That said, Tony brings up an interesting angle--if by chance the Subaru part is a direct OEM from a manufacturer selling the same part in the same form factor, with the same pinout...it may be an avenue to saving some $$ if you can chase all that down. For instance, Honda CD changers used to be OEM'd through Alpine, and you could buy an Alpine CD changer and a special cable to interface to the Honda head unit for half the cost of the Honda-sold changer upgrade. The only difference between the OEM unit and the one Alpine sold in stores was the DIN connector pinout--which a special cable took care of.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

Hi, That is the problem. Even if you can know who the OEM supplier is, plug to plug compatibility is not given. BTW, I am not afraid of hacking into wirings. I enjoy doing things I can myself. The feeling of satisfaction and also money can be saved. Back is in EE(retired; all the way from vacuum tubes to today's micro electronics) Yes, indeed, if not sure, better not..... Tony

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

Thanks to everyone for the great head start. I picked up the service manual today, so I'll do some reading. The car has the factory keyless entry, but no alarm system. If it is an electronics box that's gone haywire, are we talking about the control for the electric locks or for the keyless entry? Or would they be one and the same? (I have another car with an aftermarket keyless, so I'm guessing it might be a completely separate unit.)

Any advice about where to read up on the relays, coils and switches involved would also be appreciated. I don't have an EE background, but I have a troubleshooter's mind and a good set of tools, and I'm too cheap to plunk down good money at the dealer's if I don't have to!

-Peter

They may be one in the same. Your service manual will help you determine.

A relay is just a device that uses a little current from some electronics to operate a big mechanical switch. Think of it as an electrical lever of sorts. Physically they're usually squarish, about the size of a D battery, and have wires coming out of one end.

Design wise, you need these for controlling high current devices like lights. If a relay goes bad, it causes the little current from the "brain" of the keyless entry system or alarm to be unable to reliably control the big current to the doorlock actuators or lights, or what have you.

-- Todd H.

Peter A wrote in news:Xns94023CB9A23A9peteraatscndotorg@66.93.87.101:

Thanks to all the great advice! I found the keyless entry control unit, tucked back above the fuse box and strapped on with a cable tie. It was simple to remove, just a couple of wiring harnesses attached. It is not the same unit that controls the electric locks -- I removed the keyless entry control unit, popped the fuse back in, and the problem seems to have disappeared. And I have my electric locks back (even if the keyless remote doesn't work yet)!

I'll leave this disconnected for a couple weeks to make sure the problem doesn't return. If this unit is indeed fried, I found the replacement part for about $120 (part # H7110AS010, if anyone's interested). The dealer wanted $250 parts and labor, and that was after I already identified the problem, so t'shooting probably would have pushed the bill over $300. Haynes and this newsgroup saved me $180 today. Hooray!

I'll let y'all know how it turns out in a couple weeks. I'll need to program the transmitter on the new unit, so that may be my next post. :-)

-Peter

Sweet...that's cheap in comparison. !

Typically pretty easy--you may find that there are DIP switches inside your remote controls. Just set those to match the DIP switches on the keyless unit, and typically you're golden.

-- Todd H.