Engine lifting points?

Subaru engines weigh next to nothing. I have used a tow strap more than once to pull an engine. Just wrap it around the ends of the cylinder heads and across the intake manifold in an X pattern.

Thanks - I'll try that too. It looks like a very similar engine as my aircooled bug has and that one I can pull in about 1/2 hour or so (of course, it doesn't have half the stuff this thing has :)

I started today by disconnecting the obvious stuff, all the while taking pictures of the connections and putting lables on them. I think I can carefully swing the AC compressor and power steering pump out of the way (towards the sides) without having to disconnect everything, does that sound right to you? It also looks like the radiator has to come out so that there's enough room to pull the engine clear from the shaft, do I have that right? I was actually debating whether the intake manifold has to come off or not. You're suggesting it can stay without a problem? It just looks tight, in that one may not be able to get a socket on the flexplate bolts with it on..

Thanks for the suggestions. Remco

My engine-pulling experiences are limited to the EA 82 and ER 27 engines. Having said that, I see no reason to remove the intake manifold. I always removed the radiator. The AC compressor can be removed from the engine without breaking any of the lines and placed out of the way. I don't think this will work with the power steering. I always removed the lines at the pump. Sometimes I removed the hood and other times I didn't. The compressor bracket can be used for one chain attachment point. I think you will also need to support the transmission with a jack as it will move forward and downward when separated from the engine. Always a good idea to remove the battery from the engine bay. When you think the engine is ready to pull, look again for something still connected. In my experience I almost always find an overlooked ground strap or something still connected to the engine.

Thanks for those hints, John. I'll try to do it the same way, hopefully today if not tomorrow.

Remco

Hi Remco,

I missed the original post, so I'm not clear on exactly what model Subaru you are working on.

All of the engines I have pulled had a pair of dedicated lift points, one on the alternator/AC bracket, the other bolted to the passenger side rear of the block.

Easy engines to pull - no need to lift car and work underneath.

I have been able to remove starter and bell housing bolts/nuts from the topside, only needed to lie down and reach under the front to unbolt the exhaust and remove engine mount to frame nuts.

zero

I THINK there is also a little known 'feature' concerning the hood. Look near the pass side strut tower for a hole. Evidently Subaru has placed it there so the support strut can be moved, placed in that hole (not sure if I remember the plastic piece goes too - or maybe on some models the rod switches end-for-end?) and it will hold the hood in a vertical position. Some soobs may need windshield washer tubing disconnected.

good luck

Carl

Couldn't find a pic, here's a description;

Thanks, Carl. I tried that second hole and it works very well. The hood stands straight up and does not need to be removed at all, from the looks of it.

Thanks! I just got back in as it is getting dark again. Got everything off the engine, radiator out, exhaust off and nothing else connected, from what I can tell. Even got the AC and power steering pump pushed to the side -- didn't even have to disconnect the steering pump.

Thanks for the location on those lift point - I see what they are now. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the engine out. Unfortunately, my bug's body and frame is in the garage so have to do all this stuff outside - hoping for no rain.

Thanks again, guys. Remco

Cool! I did read of a coupla guys roping the hood to a rafter or back to the roof rack on a wagon.

Carl

Hi Remco!

On 28 Dec 2005 13:39:45 -0800, "Remco" wrote:

Sounds like you're mostly there. As you have found, the AC and PS pumps can be moved out of the way; no need to disconnect. No need to remove alternator or intake manifold. Disconnect engine wiring harness, fuel lines, brake booster, etc. Remove the radiator, heater lines, engine snubber, starter, and the other upper bell-housing bolt. Disconnect the exhaust "Y" pipe (don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensor), motor mount nuts, and lower bell-housing nuts from below. This is an automatic car? The flex plate bolts (4 of 'em) are accessed thru the timing hole. When you move the engine forward prior to lifting it out, be sure you do not inadvertently pull the torque converter forward. This is real easy to do, and it's not particularly obvious that it is out of position. However, you will severely damage the transmission if you attempt to re-install the engine with it out. I'd suggest that you carefully measure the position of the torque converter in relation to the bell-housing before attempting to separate the engine. Briefly, the torque converter has two concentric shafts; the inner one drives the gear train, the outer drives the pump. It is the connection to the pump that is the issue. Should you accidentally move the converter, keep trying different orientations until you get it to slide all of the way into place. The difference between good and bad is only about 1/4 inch, so do be careful. FWIW, I haven't found the engine "leveler" to be of much use on the Soobies. I generally use a bit of light chain to lift the engine roughly into position, and then basically grab the engine and ease it into position by hand. This sounds kinda macho, but the engine is fairly light, and this allows you to be reasonably gentle as you "feel around" for the correct alignment. You should be able to get the bell-housing flange right up against the engine this way; if there is a stubborn 1/4 inch gap, DO NOT FORCE THE ISSUE. Rather, lift the engine back out and verify the torque converter position.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Just to keep you guys updated, today I got the engine out (was waiting for some decent weather).

because of not being secured correctly, as suspected. Three of the holes in the torque converter/flywheel are clear, one has a snapped off bolt in it - I think I can get it out, so it is soaking in kroil right now. I'll try to nurse it out later. Other than that, I think a new driveplate and I'll be good to go. Will probably also replace the water pump as it looks like it is leaking, so will also do the timing belt while I am there.

Appreciate the help, guys. Remco