Fumotovalve & high mileage oil

OK. I have a 2000 OBW with 167K kms on it. I've just got a Fumotovalve which I'm hoping will be ok. Just wondering how many miles/changes do people have on their fumotovalves??

I also just saw at Canadian Tire the Fram SureDrain oil drain valve. Anyone have experience with this one?? it actually looks like a good design and come with a hose and also a dust cover which I like. It's highlighted on the Fram website:

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Also at 167 kms, I'm considering changing to a high mileage oil like Valvoline Max Life. I actually started using synthetic oil just to try it out and haven't noticed any problems but I'm wondering if at this point would going to a somethign liek Max Life be bettter??

Thanks, Jim

Reply to
Jim
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Hi,

I've no experience with the Fumoto valve--like Jim Stewart, I believe trial by hot oil strengthens the character! :D

On high mileage oil... mixed emotions prevail. I understand the main claim to fame with such products is the addition of a "seal conditioner" that helps reduce leaks. Some say it helps reduce oil consumption--one of my clients runs a quickie lube place, and says he's seen "spectacular" results, in SOME engines! Personal opinion here is if your engine doesn't leak, and doesn't eat a lot of oil, little will be gained by its use and you'll probably benefit more from the synthetic than a change to a hi-mileage product. OTOH, it might be worth a try if either condition exists in your engine (which at your mileage, probably doesn't.) Oil leaks are best cured by mechanical means, IMO, and the areas most likely to leak on Subie engines are the seals that probably oughta be replaced at each t-belt change, especially if you have a 100k mile belt change interval on your engine vs the original 60k, where sometimes you can get away with every second change on seals. (And sometimes not!)

Good luck,

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Reply to
spider

i have about 10 oil changes on my fumotovalve. Probably about 45k miles.

Jim wrote:

Reply to
spam

Couple questions here... If my seals were leaking or my engine was consumming oil...would it be painfully obvious to me? Or might it be something I need to look for??

Also, I wasn't aware that they changed seals with the timing belt. Is that part of the normal service? What seals are those?

I've noticed lately my engine is starting to show some of it's age. It's a bit pickier about my clutch work when it's cold and when I change the oil I can really feel the difference afterwards. These are things I didn't really notice when the engine was younger. I'm assuming this is all normal?

Thanks, Jim

Reply to
Jim

Any drips of oil on the floor underneath the engine? If so, yes, you have a leaky seal. If not, you could still have a tiny leak, but nothing to fret over--it will just make the engine grimy. Engine oil consumption's a "risk tolerance" thing. Most mfrs won't talk to you about oil consumption being a problem unless you're going thru more than a quart in 1000 miles. My experience with a variety of engines is that a quart in 2000 to 3000 miles is about right for my driving style once the engine's got some miles, though as long as it's less than 1 qt/k mi I don't worry. A few of newer engines may show minimal oil usage in as much as 5000 miles. I check my oil at least once a week (depends on time of year as my mileage varies tremendously by "season") and keep it topped up, adding 1/4 to 1/2 qt or so as needed. Friends think I'm nuts. I'm the only one of them with over 350k miles on an original engine. You pays your money and you takes your choices.

Probably not a part of normal service unless you do it yourself or ask your mechanic/dealer to do it. Seals you want to pay attention to are the camshaft seals (one on each side of the engine), the front main crank seal, and the O-rings on the back and regular seal on the front of the oil pump. All these are quite easy to service during a timing belt change cuz the engine's already stripped down for easy access. Some people add a water pump to the list of "just do its" cuz it, too, requires the same disassembly as t-belt service. BTW, if you do the t-belt yourself, or have in independent mechanic doing it, Subaru OEM belts are the only way to go. Life expectancy of aftermarket belts, even top name brands, CAN be lower than should be expected.

We all get older, find it harder to get out of bed in the morning, and hear stranger noises each year while doing so... :) The clutch could be getting worn, there could also be a bit of oil leakage from the rear main seal onto it. The added perkiness after an oil change is something many of us "perceive" even in newer engines, though it could also be a signal an engine flush is in order. You can use Rislone to help clean things out while you drive, Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase does the same, or you can go to more aggressive cleaners at an oil change. I'd start w/ Rislone or MMO--they're far less likely to bust loose a big deposit of "stuff" and clog something.

HTH,

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

I used to lose a quart every 3000 or so, but with the recent worsening of my oil seals, I'm feeling like it's more like every 1500. Then again I've got

170k on an engine that, as far as I can tell from Subaru service records, has never been opened, replaced, or otherwise modified from factory condition save for filters and external devices. I might even be on the original timing belt. (EJ22 non-interference.) Since I lack the funds to really care for my vehicle at this point, only the Subaru resistance to neglect is holding it together.

-Matt

Reply to
Hallraker

About same with my car (96 Brighton wagon). Considering the way the Fumoto valve is built, I would bet it will last the life of the car. I have the standard model but you can get one with a spigot you can fit a tube on when you drain the oil.

Reply to
Gilles Gour

Subaru's are notorious for the two cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump leaking. These are almost always changed (along with the water pump and drive belts) when the timing belt is replaced. All of these reside behind the timing cover and it's cheaper to do it while it's apart. A leak at these seals flows to the drain hole in the timing cover and when you drive it drips out and blows back to the converter where it burns up without a trace. Ever notice a smell or a little smoke from under the hood after a long trip? TG

Reply to
TG

The Application Guide from Fram lists all 1972 and 1973 Subaru 4 cylinder engines and nothing else!

-R.

Reply to
Richard Chang

Thanks for the info. I've never noticed any buring smells or smoke from under the hood and about every other week I make a 800 km round trip weekend. So 3-4 hours on the road, sometimes non stop and I've never noticed anything like that...I'm assuming I should be ok then?

Thanks.

Reply to
Jim

I checked with Fram a year or so ago and they said that they did not carry a SureDrain for the current Subaru engine. So I went with Fumoto. It works fine, but I have to re-remember which way to push every time I use it.

I've got SureDrain on my Geo and it works great.

Richard Chang wrote:

Reply to
BBB

It's a good thing that the Fram drain valve doesn't fit Subarus. I have a Fumoto valve on my Outback which works great and I have about

50K miles on it ( change every 5K). I have Fram valves on a Honda and a Chevy truck. I hate them. The little tube has to be twisted with the fitting in order to open the valve because the tube is permanently curved due to the packaging.. The hot oil usually causes the tube to slip off making a big mess. Fumoto valve is a dream and I'm sure it will last the lifetime of any Subaru.
Reply to
cocoon

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