The clock in my Forester 2001 went dead two days ago. It became dark and doesn't show anything. This is weird as I never heard any car having a failed clock ~~~~~
My guess is that maybe there is a fuse for this clock and it melted? But I don't know how to check and how to replace if it is the cause.
The reference above is excellent: the trouble is quite likely a failed solder joint, either at the resistor mentioned in the link provided, or at one of the solder pads at which provide power (and support) to the display itself. I've had this problem as well and fixed it by resoldering the failed joint.
I repaired mine - it's apparently quite a common problem. There's a resistor which breaks loose from the solder joint - you just need to resolder it. Takes longer to get it out than to fix it. At worst it's a $0-50 replacement - but you can fix it for free...
The one in my 2002 Forester died last month. Dealer said the part was $125 to replace it. Ouch.
"Tom Bavis" wrote: > On 24 Dec 2006 11:46:57 -0800, " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" > > wrote: > > >The clock in my Forester 2001 went dead two days ago. It > became dark > >and doesn't show anything. > >This is weird as I never heard any car having a failed clock > ~~~~~ > >
Hey! I don't suppose you have a picture of the clock showing which resistor? Mine's been sitting on the workbench taken apart for a year now. It would work when I ran power to the right pins -- but then everytime I put it back together and plugged into the car it would quit right away (after getting wiggled?) again. I recently gave up, and bought a stick-on battery powered one, but that's not nearly as nice.
(How can a digital clock cost $50? When a mobile ph> The one in my 2002 Forester died last month. Dealer said the part was
I'm sure the silly pricing game will continue until the rules somehow change. If folks will pay it it'll be expensive, and if you can't get volume sales why would the dealers lower the price! I agree that the prices are exorbitant on most items and need adjusting, but don't know how to remedy that, especially on import items. I usually run to the u-pull it yard when I need something, but then, I don't drive the newer soobs, so at least I can do just that.
Wow! Thanks, but... weird timing. After leaving it apart on the workbench for months, I just happened to go and mess with it yesterday, and it took all of 2 seconds with the soldering iron and now seems good as new. Except that I've lost the rubbery parts of the buttons -- the bits that press on the circuit board...
And then, I go to look at the newsgroup after having ignored it for a month too -- and here you are with a picture! Yep: that's the one.
Thanks to you and anybody else who posted about this. Now I can put the cheapy battery-powered clock I bought in the pickup, instead.
Tell me -- here's a hypothesis: do you routinely drive with your headlights on in daylight? Because we do, and that would have that dimmer function activated all the time. Just a thought.
Hey. Another thought about the clock. The Foresters of the same year had a little compartment in that spot, right? Is it the same dashboard? I mean, would the clock module be interchangeable with the compartment? And there was some kind of optional gauge package that could go there, too.
By the way, and maybe I'm misunderstanding your directions, but I didn't do any of that "take off any of the face around the radio" and such that you show -- just pried around the seam of the clock module itself. It's held in by four of those annoying plastic clippy deals. After the clock failed again after the first time I messed with it, I filed those down so it's easier to pop out. When I'm all done I'll just stick it back down with double-faced tape or silicone or something else semipermanent.
Do you still have a link to the $6 clock on eBay? The main power in my house is 12-volt, and these seem like they'd be nifty clock/night-lights to put in various spots. I guess I should measure how much current it draws while I still have it on the workbench...
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