High oil consumption - cause and remedy?

This is an ongoing issue. To recap briefly:

For close to 15,000 miles, 2002 Forester (89,000 mi now) was losing oil at a rate ~ 1 quart every 1,000 miles.

As it was associated with a small oil and coolant leak, the dealer's diagnosis was failed head gasget. $2,000 later, the oil leak is gone but oil consumption is hardly changed, around 0.8 quarts per 1,000 miles.

Googling suggests excessive oil burnng is a common problem with 2.5L boxer engines. I'll be going to the dealer next week but chances that they will admit that they made me pay two grands for not fixing a problem are pretty low.

Question: what are most typical causes of oil burning and how difficult/expensive are they to fix? Alternatively, how detrimental to the car would it be to disregard the problem and just keep adding oil?

Thanks,

Dima

Reply to
DK
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Many, many cars in the country have high oil consumption(much worse than yo= urs) and folks just add oil to top off so, that isn't really an issue. DO N= OT however, tell yourself that, since you regularly add fresh oil, you can = skip/extend oil changes.Fuel and moisture can still collect in the crankcas= e possibly causing problems(altering the viscosity and other parameters of = the oil). You 'could' experiment with a different type or brand of oil for = 'high mileage' cars or a less expensive brand.=20

DO Make certain the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve and hoses ar= e not misrouted or dirty/clogged.=20

If it isn't dripping oil, it must be burning it and that reapir could be ex= pensive unless it's just the PCV system. If you still have dripping oil, fu= rther investigation by the dealership may find something simple like an Oil= Pressure sender leaking or a filter adapter gasket leaking or ???????

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

yours) and folks just add oil to top off so, that isn't really an issue. DO NOT however, tell yourself that, since you regularly add fresh oil, you can skip/extend oil changes.Fuel and moisture can still collect in the crankcase possibly causing problems(altering the viscosity and other parameters of the oil). You 'could' experiment with a different type or brand of oil for 'high mileage' cars or a less expensive brand.

not misrouted or dirty/clogged.

expensive unless it's just the PCV system. If you still have dripping oil, further investigation by the dealership may find something simple like an Oil Pressure sender leaking or a filter adapter gasket leaking or ???????

I have had 6 Japanese cars over the last 30 or so years and none have required additional oil between changes. Changes are every 6 months. Having said that When the dealer tells you the estimate of the costs he wants to rip out of your wallet for the next repair, divide that by the cost of a quart of oil and that's how many thousand miles you could be ahead.

Reply to
bugalugs

Thanks. I'll order and change it. That's inexpensive and easy enough to do even for me.

Yes, previously in this car (and another Subaru we had) the level barely changed over 5,000 mi. I understand that if the oil is burning, the unburned residue has got to end up somewhere, which can't be all that good. So my question just how bad can it be? We'd like to keep this car for another ~ 10 years/100,000 miles. If it's not going to kill something that would demand another expensive repair (catalytic convertor?), surely adding oil is easy enough.

Dima

Reply to
DK

I wouldn't say it's an ideal situation, it likely will reduce the lifespan = of the front O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. But, a qt. every 1,000 = miles oil usage, in a NEW car, is probably right on the cusp of being a war= rantied problem. I know a guy years ago that bought a new camaro and had 1 = qt. usage in 900 miles and couldn't get any warranty/lemon law help with th= e problem.

If you feel the dealership isn't pursuing this correctly, contact the SOA R= egional Rep. and discuss the matter with him. Even out of warranty - they w= ill sometimes pay for labor if you will pay for the parts, as a 'goodwill' = effort.=20

good luck - hope it's something simple.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Are you using new car factory recommended 5w-30 grade oil? At 74k miles, when problem showed up, you should be using something thicker, unless in very cold climate.

I bet a 10w-30 would reduce oil consumption somewhat, a 15w-50, or 15w-40, could make a bigger difference. I would not hesitate using 20w-50 in milder climate, or even straight 30, or 40, for summer.

Basia

Reply to
abjjkst

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