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How to separate engine from transmission?

I'm attempting to remove the EJ25D engine from my 98 Forester. Engine mounts, starter, 2nd top bolt and two bottom nuts have been removed from the bell housing. Looking at my replacement engine this appears all that's required. The flywheel inspection cover (secured with M6 bolts) is inaccessible until the engine is out from what I can see, and not attached to the bell housing.

The engine is lifted with a crane to free the mount bolts from the cross-member, but the engine does not want to separate from the transmission even with violent shaking. My guess is that the bell housing pins are jammed with corrosion. The bell housing has shifted about .002" only.

Have I missed something?

Any suggestions on where or what to hit to free this? On the block about

20mm from the bell housing pins there's a horizontal unused M10 bolt hole. Is this maybe for a bolt used to press something on the inner bell housing to free it (like is done with drum brakes)?

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS
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Just found some how-to videos on ultimatesubaru website. I'll try it tomorrow.

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

Hi Stewart!

Once all of the engine - bell housing bolts are out (there are 6 IIRC), the snubber thing, and exhaust are off,and the motor mounts are loose, take a sharp wood chisel, align it with the seam in the vicinity of one of the bolt holes (the casting is thicker there), and drive it in. Do a little on one side, insert a place keeper such as a table knife, then go to the other side and repeat. Once started, it will usually pop apart, but on stubborn ones, you might have to work down the sides as well. This sounds harsh, but any scars left from the chisel are easily cleaned up with a file, and it's not a sealing surface anyway. Good luck with that swap.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Geeeez, was that a BEAR!!!

I now have on my garage floor ... a) one EJ25D with new relatively new head gaskets, bent valves and an unjammed idler sprocket; and b) another EJ25D with perhaps original head gaskets, new belt, idlers, oil pan, and a whole lot of clean up.

Tomorrow I swap the flywheel and clutch, check everything and put b) back into the car.

Guess this was a fast-track (rather than crash) course in Subaru. I now know pretty much everything I wanted about older Subes.

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

Hi again Stewart !

When you go to slide the eng>Geeeez, was that a BEAR!!!

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

I was in the australian army years ago and I'm sure my my creative vocabulary will be more than adequate!

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

Do you have pics? It would be nice to see before and after pics.

Reply to
Airport Shuttle

I majored in "Creative Languages", and even make up my own!

Reply to
Hachiroku

"Airport Shuttle" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@no-mx.forums.travel.com...

Sure, before and after what? Getting the engine / trans apart, or the Forester engine bay with the new engine?

I've cleaned up the mating surfaces, and replaced one of the dowel pins . These press tightly into the block, and should easily fit the bell housing. I cleaned up the 10mm bell housing holes with a 9.8mm drill bit and some rolled 600grit paper, and lubed them (and will later the mating surfaces) with aluminium anti-seize grease. The pins now slide into the bell housing and should separate next time (!) it's necessary.

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

It would be nice to see pics of the project.

Reply to
Airport Shuttle

Well, that was, err, fun!

The "new" (180K-200K km) engine is back in, the coolant burped (I can't hear any gurgling when I squeeze the top hose), and it all seems to run smoothly. There was quite a bit of smoke initially which stopped after a few minutes of running, so I'm guessing the valve seals were a bit dry. Just in case I'll put in some oil treatment and watch it.

Thanks to all who advised.

SD

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

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