Inner CVJ Boots

Each axle has only one roll pin and it has to come out. Use only the correct size drift pin/punch to remove them. You don't know what grief is until you break or jam something like a drill bit inside the axle. Seems foolish to me to go through the trouble of just replacing the inner boots because the outer boots will fail and need replaced the next week. I know with my luck that would be the case. Pulling the entire axle is not that much of a job. But to answer your original question, the joint at one end of the CV axle can be removed by first removing a snap ring. Takes a hammer to remove the other end. I just don't recall which end has the snap ring. I think it is the inner joint but not sure.

Um, I have an '03 OBW and was wondering at what mileage these boots failed? tia Carl

Had my inner boots fail in Feb while on a trip. Only replaced the inner ones myself while at family a long way from home. I had a little more than 125k miles on the car at the time. One thing I would recommend to everyone is to keep a check on these. The right inner boot will let all the grease get slung all over the exhaust system and what a pain for smoke and smell.

You've got to pull the axle out from the hub and I found that required you disconnect the spendle from the strut. Not a real big deal but one of the attaching bolts adjs the camber so you have to make sure you get it back to the same spot.

For the inner boot you only need to remove a snap ring to disassemble. Big mess cleaning up all the old grease on the joint components.

I was in a no-Subaru area so finding a suitable part wasn't the easiest. Went to Auto Zone and they had a listing but no parts but the did list and have a universal boot for the outter one. I found this universal one worked on the inner end as well. Almost a yr and

15k miles now and still looks as good as when I replaced.

Oh, it took me about an hr for each shaft. Much of the time was getting the shaft out and back end and cleaning up the old grease. The rest was a piece of cake. Oh, one more thing, the inner half of the shaft just snaps in and out of the tranny, Not real hard but it just doesn't push in or pull out.

Mickey

Yes, it _is_ possible to replace the inner boot (outer boot as well FWIW) w/o removing the axle from the hub, _and_ w/o removing the inner joint from the transmission. Questionable whether it's worth the bother, tho; you will have done 90% of the work to remove the axle by the time you're done, and you can do a much nicer job with the axle out on the workbench. Feel free to contact me directly if you need procedures for this.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Hi,

It has 90000Kms. The Subaru parts bloke said the inner boots fail first because they are subjected to exhaust system heat.

We could not move the axle nuts no matter what we did, so are giving the job to a helpful mechanic we know. Enough was enough when I wound up the socket wrench extension bar in a spiral. It was hot from the deformation!

I know an impact gun would probably do it, but we will put the hire cost towards the mechanic's bill.

Geoff

That sounds like a wise move. I recently got a compressor and air tools, so axle nuts and crank bolts hold no fear for me any longer. Buwahahahaha! But without an impact driver those devils can mock our feeble efforts to loosen them, leaving us with sore muscles and bruised egos. One tip, though - if you can get a suitable extension, you can put the end of it on a floor jack and break the nut loose that way with somebody standing on the brake. I've occasionally lifted the wheel off the ground that way, which signals defeat unless I can get a longer breaker bar.

Mike

Why do we need CVJ boots anyway? My '91 Jeep works just fine without them and even has a better turn radius than my '03 Outback. The half-shafts on the rear of my '71 Jag don't have boots either; and the half-shaft is even part of the suspension!

Al

Dunno what the Jeep has (u-joints?) but the Jag undoubtedly has u-joints on the rear. Universal joints work fine as long as the angles are small. Constant Velocity joints are needed when the wheels are steered because u-joints "whip" between the 90 degree points when really deflected. That is, the rotational speed on the tranny end is lower for a constant road speed when the u-joint is only flexed one direction than it is when it is flexed both directions. During tight turns that puts a lot of stress on a lot of things. CV joints don't have that limitation, but the tradeoff is that the whole affair has to swim in grease... thus the boots.

Mike

Right, on the Jag, the movement is limited. My '66 Corvair also had the half-shafts.

But what about the front wheel drive on the Jeep? Somebody did something right there with the universal joint!

Al

The outback's nuts are tightened at 130 ft-lb. Nissan Maxima's are at

215 ft-lb. Getting the subaru nuts off is so much harder... and then, the boots fail so frequently in the Subaru.... grrr, my friends failed at 71k miles, mine at 63k.

Besides: hole >>Hi,