Inst. panel lights - 1999 OB - solution

Some time ago I asked on this board for help with instrument panel lights going out after a jump start.

My @#&* dealer would charge me $80 just for a diagnosis.

I was afraid I'd have to replace bulbs, which is a big deal involving removing the instrument panel. But maybe it was only a burned out fuse. I asked if anyone knew which fuse to examine. (It was very cold out and my fingers got frostbite trying to find the bad fuse.)

I got no answer. There was only one fuse in the fuse box in the cabin that was labelled with anything remotely relevant: ILLUMINI , which is not an English word I believe but suggests a lighting relationship. It being a bit warmer one day, I checked that fuse and found it OK. That was a few weeks ago.

So for two weeks I used a headlamp for night driving just so I could see the instruments.

Today I pulled that fuse again, for no good reason. But when I put the fuse back in its socket, the instrument lights came on! I guess there was dirt on the contacts and the two cycles of examination wiped off the dirt.

Anyway, somebody somewhere might like to know about this.

Ben

Reply to
Uncle Ben
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Wow. That's bizarre. LOL. I guess oxidation took its toll?

Thanks for posting this bit of info--very interesting!

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

You're probably lucky that no one replied, as most of the replies would have been variations on the theme of 'read the manual', with some expletives inserted. Info like that can be found there.

Dan D '99 Impreza 2.5 RS (son's) Central NJ USA

Reply to
Dano58

Info like that can be found there.

You would think so! But I did read the owner's manual and I bought a Chilton guide after searching the local library for one. I couldn't find an adequte description of all the fused circuits. I did find out how to take the intrument panel out, but thank God I didn't try it.

Uncle Ben

Reply to
Uncle Ben

Dear Uncle Ben:

I have a burned out light bulb in my display - and it isn't a fuse... Did you find detailed instructions? Would you share that info? I might try this on my own, since it'll be well of $100.00 to get it fixed at the shop...

Reply to
Fred Boer

On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 00:35:35 -0500, Uncle Ben wrote (in article ):

You must be a youngster. Back in the day when radios and TV sets all had vacuum tubes, the standard first thing to do in troubleshooting (if there was nothing obviously wrong) was to clean the tube contacts by removing and replacing all the tubes once or twice.

Reply to
John Varela

Use the search function or ask at

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. I believe there is even a Radio Shack bulb which works well.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Down this page, mention is made of the Radio Shack bulb which can sometimes be used;

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Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

this guy makes his own tubes;

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Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

and more bulb replacement info;

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Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Reply to
Uncle Ben

Maybe its second childhood. I am old enough to remember that a "37" tube is the same as a "73" and that the charlatan I worked for would replace all the coupling capacitors in the client's radio as "preventive maintenance."

Uncle Ben NQ2H ex-W4MSK ex-Transcontinental Corp East-to-West

Reply to
Uncle Ben

Fred, if you mean instructions on how to gain access to the old bulb, I am just guessing that you have to remove the intrument panel, but if someone knows different, I will defer to him.

Removing the instrument panel is described in the Chlton manual, but it is quite a job, involving removing the steering wheel, for example. I difn't do it, so you'd better get the manual for yourself. You can buy an online version for less than $20.

I think I wold lei someone else do it if the price is only $100.

Reply to
Uncle Ben

Thanks! You are probably right.

Reply to
Fred Boer

ncle Ben:

I replaced the entire cluster in my 95 LS wagon a few years ago and didn't have to remove the steering wheel. Maybe that was because the LS wheel has all those adjustments. Recall it took around 20 minutes and the cluster JUST had enough clearance to be pulled. had to twist and turn it but it did come out and the newer cluster did go back in. Disconnect the battery if you try this, just in case.

Reply to
johninky

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