Is this head gasket leak?

I was looking at the online recommended list for small SUVs.

Reply to
Dean Hoffman
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I guess some people don't like changes. She drove manual all here life. I don't feel nearly as strongly but I also think that manual offers considerably more control over the car.

Reply to
DK

OK, went to an independent mechanic today. Got more info, the issue not exacttly resolved:

- Dealership guys said "a lot of oil in the coolant'. The other mechanic looked and said he couldn't find any evidence of the oil. I tend to agree for there is absolutely nothing visible and immiscible with antifreeze. He says when oil is in the coolant, the rubber hone going into coolant tank swells a lot and there is foam on a radiator cap. No evidence of any of that. Also, coolant level remained at the same exact level for the past

15,000 miles the car has been leaking oil.

- Dealer claimed there is coolant leaking outside, staining something on the engine. I know 100% for sure that there was never a single antifreeze drop on my garage floor. The independent guy couldn't see any signs of dried coolant.

- The top of the head gasket is totally dry, the bottom on both sides has slight oil wetness around it. Maybe a few millimeters going both sides. The mechanic said it's not what he'd consider head hasket leak that requires a fix. I guess he has a pretty lax disposition about these things. In his words, when a head gasket leaks on Subarus, the whole bottom of the car tends to be covered in oil. He said he wouldn't at this point touch it even if it were his own car.

- To me, this sounds like there is definitely a small leak in the head gasket. Whether it is serious to account for the car losing oild so that it gets to the minimum oil level on a dispstick after about 2500-3000 miles, I don't know. The mechanic said that there might be a leak elsewhere but he could't tell where it is coming from. Sounds strange to me.

Overall, his recommendation was to drive normally, monitor oil level carefully and only start worrying and come back if any of the following becomes true:

- Losing oil much faster;

- Oil in the coolant;

- Sweet smell from the exhaust;

- Overheating. This certainly works for me, for I am not thrilled with the prospect of $2K repair but I am still a bit uneasy for the oil leak not fully diagnozed and still not exactly sure if there is any danger in driving with very small head gasket leak.

- Dima

P.S. Turns out the dealership guys overfilled oil slightly when changing it yesterday. Maybe 0.5 cm above maximum level on a dipstick. Serious enough to bother with or not?

Reply to
DK

Kinda good news, comparatively, I suppose. And I think you found a dealership that may have been trying to generate some business.

I once had a car that leaked oil from a bad oil pressure sensor/ switch. Sprayed/misted oil when driving such that it blew all under the car and I would get little drips form multiple places when parked. No single puddle.

Thanx for updating us!

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

2011 Forester will have the H4 with a timing chain.

Also, check what kind of loaner vehicles the Suzuki service department has. You'll be driving those a LOT if you own a Suzuki.

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

I'd trust a Suzuki- In the first 3 years of ownership my Outback reuired a new windshield washer nozzle, a new front strut and a C/V joint boot. All were warranty or extended warranty claims and little out of pocket. In the forst three years of ownership the Kia Sedona has only had a plugged sunroof drain. My subaru has served me well but now at 7years old and 94kmiles it really feels old. Any gaslet leaks would be covered under suzuki or kia's warranty. The most trouble prone vehicles I've dealt with were a 92 Dodge Datona and a

2001.5 VWPassat.

Th>

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Reply to
Big Jim

A quart of oil in 3000 miles???? That is FAR from excessive oil consumption. What oil are you using??? Mileage on the car??

If there is no oil in the antifreeze and no oil spots on the driveway someone saw you coming and thought you were an easy mark.

No problem.

Reply to
clare

The infamous "oil pisser" switch ;}

Was a common problem on Toyotas of the seventies era, as well as Chryslers of the same vintage. (and not uncommon on many other models either)

Reply to
clare

Oh, there is definitely oil on a garage floor. Right now the milage is 75400 (this is 2002 car; mostly city driving). The leaks started at 60,000, the day I took the car back from dealer's maintenance. I attribute oil loss to the leak because right up to 60K the oil level would hardly change over 5000 miles intervals (no more than half-way between max ands min level).

Oil is regular 5W30. Dealer uses Mobile, the independent mechanic uses what he calls "semi-synthetic" Pennzoil.

Dima

Reply to
DK

If it didn't leak before the service and leaks now I'd be taking a close look at the oil filter and the train plug. Both can leak, and both would have been removed/changed at that service.

IF it is actually using oil rather than leaking it, a 10W40 will burn slower and be fine in warmer weather. (personally I'm not a fan of Pennzoil, but it may have been a low quality Pennzoil that severely coloured my opinion)

Do have your mechanic check the oil pressure switch for leakage, as well as the cam-box cover gaskets.

Reply to
clare

First thing I did when discovered the leak. Thought they didn't change the washer. Nope, no leak there.

Will do, thanks!

Reply to
DK

Still need to find a manual transmission that failed in the middle of the road for causes other than abuse or lack of oil. The clutch will last depending on the way the car is driven.

As for auto transmissions, I have seen them fail frequently, in many cars, like camry, fords taurus, nissan maxima, subaru legacy sw, infinity, etc. Subaru had problems with automatic transmissions to the point the local dealer with stack them in the transport crates by the shop.

An auto transmission will withstand better to aggressive driving. On the other hand, towing capacity seems to be better for AT cars.

Just my opinion.

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.> >

Reply to
AS

From MANY years experience, the VAST majority of automatic transmisssion failures are due to NEGLECT. The fluid NEEDS to be changed regualarly, and the proper fluid used.

Reply to
clare

Correction: A manual transmission will withstand better to aggressive driving...

From many years of experience, and having repaired quite a few, automatic transmissions fail because they are more prone to fail. Many cases of one the many seals in the hydraulic system in the transmission failing because of wear and seal degradation, this is normal for dynamic seals; they also fail because of sensors, solenoids, brake band wear, control valve wear, mechanical failures, etc. Just look at the TSBs from the manufacturers and see how many deal with auto trannys and how many with manuals. If you have access to a product such as AllData you can see by yourself.

My 1995 Legacy SW failed because the oil pump cover in the AT had worn out to the point where the reverse hub seals would not seal on it. When I got the spare from Subaru, I realized that it had sharp edges left from the manufacturing process. These were consistent with the galling present in the part I was replacing. In this particular case, there was no problem with the oil. :( At the same time, when cleaning the control valve body, I realized that the plate in this valve, against which the ball bearings seated, was paper thin and in need of being replaced. The part was not sold by itself and the whole valve was around $900 bucks at the time.

Yes you are right, the fluid needs to be changed and the right fluid has to be used. The silly part is that most > >

Reply to
AS

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