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Legacy 1996 2.2 L questions

Hi:

I have a few questions about a "new" 1996 Legacy wagon 2.2L 5 speed AWD I acquired recently.

First, I don't need the AC where we live so has anyone tried removing the drive belt to the compressor - I'm thinking it would give slightly better gas mileage - one less thing to turn... Any comments about this?

Second, I've read several posts about the importance of keeping all tires at even wear, change all tires at the same time, etc, because of that viscous thing that adjusts power to the wheels. I've read the owners' manual carefully, I think, and I can't see any reference to this at all, in fact the car has one of those little spares and only recommends not driving faster than 80 km/hr. Does anyone know what you CAN get away with? Not that I want to push the envelope or anything, but I might want to just put new tires on the front rather than replace all four....

Third, I've also heard that on this engine if the cam drive belt breaks, there is not likely to be any damage - the thing will just stop. True or not? I will probably take off the covers and have a look at the belt, but there are lots of things to take apart to see it and the engine does have 250,000 km on it. Sooo....

Finally, I'm looking for a shop manual. I'm sort of familiar with Chiltons's and Haynes and I guess they're "OK" if I can't find something better. Anyone have anything available or an opinion on what's best of those two choices? I'd like something with good and complete information, not a discussion of how to change sparkplugs!

Dave

Reply to
dave.mcc
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Sorry Dave, But the 2.2l and the 2.5l subaru engines are zero clearance engines. If the timing belt breaks you will damge the engine seriously. Best bet is to replace the timing belt every 105k miles. The old 1.8l engine in the Loyalle's were not zero cleance engines. I know first hand because I had one break on me on the expressway one morning. I coasted to the side of the road, where I pulled the distributor cap and had someone crank the engine, the distributor didn't rotate. There were 2 belts on that engine, I was lucky that the left side broke, made it easy to figure out what was wrong. Had it towed home and replace both belts that day and was back on my way for another 40k miles untill it was too rusty w/ too mant body holes to safely drive. That SPFI was a good engine, I don't like working on the 2.5l, even replacing the spark plugs is a chore. Just my opinion.

Reply to
Nick Lamendola

No worries, just pull the belt. Doubt you'll see any mileage change, but one less thing to go wrong. AC does get involved with the operation of the defroster, but I'm sure it'll work just fine w/o.

They need to be the same diameter (circumference, actually) all around, as close as possible. If you must run a different diameter tire, best to put it on the rear. (Unless your car has an LSD rear, then you might prefer it on the front.) I don't know how much difference is too much, but certainly these cars wear the fronts faster than the rears, so the system has to be somewhat tolerant. New tires on the front, and 1/2 worn ones on the back, as long as they're the same tire (not simply the same numerical size), should be fine.

I've heard that the EJ22 is a non-interference engine. I've also seen at least one instance of bent valves resulting from a timing belt failure. Best bet is to simply replace the belt and idlers regularly. Really a fairly simple job on the EJ22, but you will need to pull the radiator and crank pulley. The crank pulley can be a bear if you don't have the correct holder, and if you don't get it tight enough (how tight? very tight.) when you reassemble, you risk damage to the crank end. I have heard it suggested that you can stall the crank by stuffing a bit of nylon rope into the #1 sparkplug hole and bringing the piston up towards TDC on the compression stroke. Never tried this, but then I have a home-made holder . . .

Anyone on the group ever try this trick?

I will also add that _if_ you are willing to dispense with the AC, you can then remove the AC condenser (after being ecologically proper and _pumping_ the Freon out, naturally ;-), which should then allow you to get an impact wrench on the crank pulley bolt.

Choices limited to either the Chaynes books, or a factory set. Haven't seen the factory set on CD, but possible it exists. Otherwise shop ebay; probably get a paper set for ~$100.

ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

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