Legacy timing belt idler pulley replacement

As suggested, check the pulleys. As in remove them from the engine, wipe them clean, and inspect them thoroughly. If they are anything less than perfect (ie, they should feel smooth-as-silk when you spin them by hand; no roughness, no noise _at all_), replace them. Consider how fast the bearings in these things are spinning, how torturous an environment they live in, how much trouble they are to get at, and the possible consequences should one fail, and you will see why. Aftermarket timing belt kits including the belt, and all four idlers are available for around the $150 mark (at least for the EJ22); just doesn't make sense not to do the whole lot. Might even want to do the water pump/thermostat while you're in there; at 130K, it's probably about due (use an OEM thermostat, BTW). Also a good time to R&R the oil pump; at least inspect, and put on a new seal and O-ring. A properly maintained EJ22 can easily go 300K+ (311K on my '90 Legacy, and goin' strong). Replacing consumable components just makes good sense; good dollars as well.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Thanks very much. You are right: The extra money is small compared to what it buys. I haven't started the job yet. I wanted all the parts handy, since it seems that I always need a part that only the dealer carries, and the dealership just closed on a Saturday afternoon. Do you have a recommendation for a trustworthy Internet source for parts? (Can we mention sources on this forum?)

I'd be happy to see sources mentioned here.

FWIW: Being a retired mechanic, I do most of my own maintenance. I always replace everything inside the timing cover if I have to open it. While I do not have a Legacy and cannot therefore speak directly to that model, I will share an unpleasant experience that I had with my '88 Justy. The last timing belt that I installed on it was at the 180,000 mile mark. I was pressed for time and settled on an aftermarket belt and tensioner. At the 204,406 mile mark the stub shaft on the tensioner let go. The tensioner pulley fell off, the camshaft stopped turning, and several of my 9 valves were bent. With 200,000 plus miles on the bottom end I opted to rebuild the entire engine, rather than just the head. It cost a helluva lot more in time and money that I would have to wait a few days to get the factory part. My bottom line advise is "You get what you pay for"

Kind regards, and best of luck, Homer

I've had great luck (2 times so far) with

contact Jamie there (of fame!) I also, had a local dealership match a price at the above website. You could try that maneuver as well.

Carl

In article , snipped-for-privacy@swbell.not says... . Do you have a

Sure can...good ones and bad ones!

Jamie's done with giving deals, so you're looking at typical dealership pricing there.

The eBay timing belt kits are fine, a lot of the components are OEM anyway, but at much lower prices.

I got a made-in-Japan new water pump at NAPA that looks like it's made by the OEM supplier, for $55. I used a Stant thermostat...with a 4mm hole added via drillectomy.

I bought my timing belt, water pump, thermostat and other needed items for my 90k servicing from that site far below the dealers cost. The dealership I don't think was none too happy. However... as I was leaving that evening, the service rep came out side behind me and wanted to know where I got the parts for so cheap (I mentioned it at the service desk I had my own parts) and gave him the subarugenuineparts.com website. He said he was going to start using it to order stuff for the shop and or recommend to customers.

Ironically two weeks later he was no longer employeed at the dealership.

Jamie's prices on the STi pink wagon spec springs and the stainless braided brake lines that I just put on my car were WAY below 'list'. Still, they ARE a dealership and can even take Subaru bucks.

Good idea on drilling the t'stat. I had a friend who always did that on his GM vehicles.

Carl

On my Toyotas there is definitely wear on the pulleys at 120K. So I just automatically replace them every other timing belt.

At 60K there is usually a slight amount of play. At 120K there's significant. New pulleys have zero play.

YMMV

I've had good service from 1st Subaru parts. . I'm sure there are other good sources as well.

Re. OEM vs aftermarket timing belt and components:

In another post, Homer relates some bad experiences using aftermarket components. In general, I have to agree; by all means use OEM parts if you can find/afford them; especially engine internals and such. Alas, AFAIK, Subaru doesn't sell a timing belt kit; rather you have to purchase all of the parts individually. I'd imagine you'd be looking at something close to $400, even shopping on-line . . . Might make sense on a newer car getting it's first 105K service, but probably not on a hi-miles older model that might only be _worth_ $1500. I've used the Contitech kits on several of my own cars, my buddy uses them regularly for service work on mostly mid-late 90s vintage Soobies. No complaints so far. Cost around $150.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101